EXHIBITION ROSES. 



21 5 



A little later on comes the Rose aphis, or green-fly. This pesl should never be allowed to 

 become numerous, but be searched for and destroyed in the same way as the Rose maggot. 

 If the plants are inspected frequently, it is surprising how easily even siidi tiny creatures as 

 green-fly can be kept in cheek- with the thumb and finger alone. It is when they are allowed 

 to obtain a footing that this simple remedy fails to prove sufficient. In such cases sharp 

 syringing with clear water is advisable, or, it still stronger measures be necessary, instead of 

 clear water use one of the numerous insecticides sold for the purpose, taking care to dilute it 

 in strict accordance with the directions printed on the bottles. 



Of all the fungoid enemies of the Rose, mildew is undoubtedly the most troublesome 

 and persistent in its attacks. If, however, it be taken in hand early enough it tan always 

 be kept in check with flowers of sulphur. A simple method of distributing it is to pour a small 

 quantity into a muslin bag and dust the sulphur over the affected parts of the plants, a 

 calm evening being the best time for the purpose. This plan if persevered in will prevent 

 the mildew spreading, as it rapidly will if left alone, over the whole collection. Certain 

 Roses, like Her Majestv, are especially liable to mildew, and should on that account be planted 

 together in a separate part of the Rose garden. 



Orange fungus, or red rust, is another fungus to the attacks of which Roses are liable, 

 particularly on certain soils and in certain seasons. There is no known remedy for this 

 enemy, hut fortunately it generally makes its appearance after the first flowering is over. It 

 appears to do no permanent harm to the plants, but by causing the foliage to fall prematurely 

 it greatly reduces the supply of autumn Roses. Strangely enough, it does not affect the 

 Tea-scented varieties, but is often very troublesome among the Hybrid Perpetuals. 



THINNING AND DISBUDDING. — There is little rest for the exhibitor w hen once the plants 

 are in active growth, for in addition to keeping in check the various insect and other pests, 

 it will be necessary to remove all the young shoots which have an inward tendency and are 

 likely to crowd the interior 

 of the plants. Later on, 

 when the flower buds are 

 formed, the two smaller 

 side buds will have to be 

 removed, leaving only the 

 central one to produce a 

 flower. 



Watering and 



HOEING. — From the time 

 the buds appear at the end 

 of the shoots the plants 

 should be well watered 

 once a week', if the weather be at all dry, with weak liquid manure, and the surface of the 

 beds loosened with a hoe on the following day. If such frequent watering be impracticable, 

 each plant should receive once for all a copious supply of clear water, and the beds be 

 then covered with a mulching of half-decayed manure about 3m. thick - . 



1 need not here enter into the questions of protecting the finest flowers from ram ana 

 sun, of the best time in the day to cut the blooms for a show, of the sizes of Rose-boxes, etc., 

 having already devoted sufficient space to the discussion of the art of Rose growing from 

 an exhibitor's point of view. It is, however, always well in the first instance to have before 

 one the highest standard of culture, in order to comprehend fully the requirements of any 

 plant we may be about to grow — even if we are ourselves only able to meet those 

 requirements halfway. 



1 am well aware that in an ordinary garden especial care cannot be given to eveiy 

 kind of flower in it, even though that flower be Queen Rosa. Still, such a choice plant as 



STL'DY. 



