44 THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



not, of course, be neglected. The Pelargonium will take 

 abundance of moisture at the roots, but I do not favour 

 sprinkling overhead after the cuttings have rooted. In 

 stopping the shoots, I ought perhaps to mention now a 

 fact we may easily note by observation. The plant 

 naturally in growing makes one joint with a leaf on either 

 side; the next is a flower bud and one leaf. Again, above 

 that comes a leaf-joint, and so on. Therefore we must 

 be careful, if a bushy growth is desirable, not to tup the 

 shoot at the joint where the flower truss forms. But for 

 the fine development of individual trusses of bloom we 

 should snip out the tiny growth immediately above the 

 flower, so as to arrest the further growth of leaves. When 

 nice little bushes are obtained I would allow all flower 

 buds to remain on the plant, and then — the pots by this 

 time being well filled w ith roots — feed with something of 

 a stimulating nature. I find any fertiliser containing an 

 abundance of ammonia best lor Zonal Pelargoniums. 

 Peruvian guano is first-rate. Soot water is also excellent, 

 but this should be clear, and I would not advise the use 

 of any manure that clogs the soil, such as thick liquid 



from cow manure and the like. Shade when in bloom 

 is necessary. When the plants have passed their best 

 they may be stood in the sun for a few days to harden, 

 and then cut back to make useful material for growing 

 into large specimens another year. Later batches should 

 also be ready to take their place, it being possible by this 

 means to have bloom the whole vear. 



Winter Flowering. — This phase is not the least 

 important of all, and as a plant to provide bright, cheerful 

 colours during the dull months of the vear the Zonal 

 Geranium is unsurpassed. It is a matter of special culture 

 and a proper selection of varieties. I prefer spring-struck 

 plants to start with, and the rules as to soil and 

 firm potting are equally applicable in this case. Do not 

 overpot. The 5in. pots are generally large enough. In 

 no case would I use those above 6in. in diameter. From 

 May to the middle of September the plants may be stood 

 in an open sunny spot outside. Placed on boards along 

 the sides of kitchen garden walks is often a very conve- 

 nient position. Due attention must be given to watering, 

 stopping, and removing all flower buds when in a young 



state. As the blooms take a considerable time to 

 develop, especially late in the season, I would discon- 

 tinue taking away flower trusses after the early part 

 of the last month already mentioned. The winter 

 quarters must be satisfactory, with sufficient heat 

 to expel damp as well as favour growth. A tem- 

 perature of about 55deg. is required. All light avail- 

 able should be allowed where these plants stand, and 

 the closer they are to the glass, provided all is dry, the 

 better the colours will come out. In some instances, 

 where Zonal Pelargoniums in w inter are a speciality, the 

 cultivator has hot-water pipes fixed immediately under 

 the glass above the blossom. This plan, however, is not 

 likely to be followed generally, nor do I think it neces- 

 sary. The greatest enemy to Geranium blooms in winter 

 is thick fog, and il is next to impossible to grow such 

 with success in or close to large towns, where the air is 

 charged with smoke from a multitude of chimneys. Pure 

 country air and the medium temperature named make 

 matters tolerably easy. Care is required in watering. 

 As little as possible should be allowed among the plants, 



a n d the 

 work ought 

 to be done 

 during the 

 m o r n i n g. 

 Care, again, 

 m list be 

 exercised in 

 air - giving, 

 so as to 

 a v o id 

 draughts as 

 m uch as 

 possible. It 

 is easy to 

 overdo the 

 roots with 

 sti m u lan ts 

 in the 

 w i n t e r 

 months. 

 This item, 

 therefore, 

 should be 

 wa t c h ed. 

 Many 

 varieties, in 

 fact, bloom 

 better in 

 w inter with- 

 out any 

 feeding, 

 more espe- 

 cially the 

 whites and 

 other light 



shades. Single varieties as well as doubles are 

 used, the former being the more showy, but less 

 useful for cutting, as the petals are so easily shattered. 

 To prevent this, liquid gum is dropped into the centre 

 of each pip. If this be done and the stems placed 

 in water directly they are cut, the blossom lasts a 

 considerable time. Gumming the petals applies to 

 single varieties at all times of the year, and for show 

 especially the blooms would soon present a miserable 

 appearance, after being shaken by the necessary removal, 

 if this matter were neglected. 



Apart from flowering plants, during dull, sunless 

 months Pelargoniums should in all cases be kept quiet. 

 We should endeavour to prevent much top-growth by 

 having a low temperature consistent with keeping out 

 frost. The roots may be on the dry side, but not so 

 parched as to kill them. If such practice be followed, 

 those plants that require heading back will have abun- 

 dance of hardened cuttings to provide material for an 

 early start in propagating a stock. 



Diseases and Insects. — Fortunately Zonal Pelargo- 



