282 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



vain. Use broken potsherds as crocks, and these, too, should be quite clean ; arrange the 

 large pieces concave side downwards to cover the larger hole or holes, followed by a 

 layer of smaller pieces, laid in carefully. A piece of fibrous or turfy loam or some 

 of the rougher sittings of the compost should be placed over the crocks, and then the 

 compost itself may follow. Place this in lightly, and also lightly press it by rapping the pot 

 smartly upon the potting bench. Fill in to the top, striking a level surface, and afterwards 

 place a pinch of sand in the centre of the surface soil. With a dibber or cedar-wood 

 pencil, using the blunt end, of course, make a hole to receive the cutting, in this way 

 carrying down a portion of the sand. On this the base of the cutting should rest; 

 as a rule about i^i'n. of the cutting should be embedded, and special pains taken to ensure 

 the soil being pressed in at the base. This should be supplemented by a rap on the 

 potting bench, thus settling the soil evenly all round. Before proceeding with the next 

 batch of cuttings label the first lot, writing the name carefully and stating the date of the 

 operation. When inserting a number of cuttings around the edge of a small pot inside, do 

 not place them too close to one another, and also see that each one is made firm. 



When propagation is completed for the time being, water the cuttings overhead 

 with water from a fine-rosed can, and allow the receptacles to drain for some time; the 

 cuttings should have the soil around them lightly pressed, as the watering is apt to carry 

 the soil away from the base. 



Several ways of treating the cuttings during the rooting process have been adopted 

 at one time or another, but the only satisfactory method of treatment is that of placing a 

 small frame, or erecting a temporary one on the greenhouse bench. This should be placed 

 as near the glass as possible, and an even temperature of about 4odeg. at night to 45deg. 

 by day maintained. Place the pots or boxes on a bottom of moist ashes, or plunge them 

 in cocoa-nut fibre refuse. The latter is to be preferred, as it keeps the pots and soil moist, 

 and one need not use the water-can. This is an important matter during the winter. 

 Arrange the pots so that the cuttings can be looked over with ease, as it may be necessary 

 to remove them sometimes, and also to detach decaying leaves. The frame should not be 

 closed absolutely. Indeed, so long as the cuttings can be kept from drooping, admit air. 

 Place laths over temporary frames, and on these sheets of glass. Under such conditions 

 the cuttings should root within a period of from a month to six weeks. During this time 

 the under-side of the glass covering to the frame is frequently covered with condensed 

 moisture, and to avoid the cuttings damping off wipe this away. 



Cuttings of the bulk' of the Japanese sorts should be inserted during December, those 

 s irts having a tendency to flower rather earlier than the others, as well as the October- 

 flowering varieties, not being propagated until January. This also applies to the Reflexed, 

 Large Anemone, and Japanese Anemone races. In the case of the incurved sorts insert the 

 cuttings during January, although there are a few sorts which would benefit by slightly 

 earlier attention. 



The beautiful Pompon varieties, which embrace the chaste blossoms of the Anemone 

 Pompons, as well as other varied characteristics of the same type of flower, may be 

 propagated during January and February, and some of the early-flowering varieties even 

 as late as March. 



The single Chrysanthemums are divided into two sections, one known as large-flowering, 

 and the other as small-flowering. They are very pretty when set up in sprays for exhibition, 

 and to get a display for the November and December shows. A safe period over which 

 their propagation may extend is from January to March, the latter date answering well 

 for a December display. The hairy-petalled varieties, which come under the heading of 

 Japanese kinds, may be propagated during December and January, choosing the latter part 

 of the first month for preference. 



POTTING. — Upon a careful examination of the cuttings it will be noticed, in course of 



