298 THE CENTURY DOOK OF GARDENING. 



groups of greenhouse favourites are without its bright 

 colour. It is no exaggeration to place B. heterophylla 

 amongst the most priceless of greenhouse plants, and it 

 flowers very quickly, even the second year after the cut- 

 tings have rooted. The flowers are produced in small 

 clusters, and so profusely that the narrow deep green 

 leaves are almost hidden. Fortunately, though hard- 

 wooded plants as a rule are frequently most troublesome 

 to manage, B. heterophylla presents no great difficulties 

 to overcome. 



B. meg'astig'ma. — The species to grow after heterophylla 

 is this, which possesses, it is true, little colour, but in 

 the whole world of flowers it is doubtful if anything is 

 more fragrant. A single plant in bloom, even a lew 

 cut flowering shoots, will scent a large house. Its growth 

 is very thin, the shoots arching over gracefully, and 

 lined with the brownish flowers, filled with strong and 

 sweet perfume. As the growth is likely to become 

 leggy if left alone, in the earlier stages of the plant pinch 

 back the shoots frequently to prevent this. For the 

 sake of its fragrance alone this species should be grown. 



B. pinnata must be mentioned, although where there is 

 only space for a small collection of greenhouse plants 

 other things should be preferred. It is a very old friend, 

 having been introduced over a century ago when hard- 

 wooded plants were in high favour, especially during the 

 time huge show specimens were fashionable. The 

 flowers are rose purple, and sweetly scented. 



B. polygalOBfolia. — This has flowers of a lilac shade, 

 and is more easily grown than any of the Boronias. 

 It is worth growing where a small collection is desired, 

 but is not so pleasing as heterophylla and megastigma. 



ChOPOZemaS. — These have not shared the same neglect 

 as the majority of hard-wooded plants, and Chorozemas 

 are too pretty to entirely forget. Many species and 

 varieties may be found in catalogues, but the following 

 are the most beautiful : C. Lowi is a bright-coloured kind 

 of rather bushy growth, and with deep green leaves, 

 reminding one of those of the Holly. C. flavum has 

 yellow flowers, and C. caudatum is also attractive. 

 ( '. Chandleri may be mentioned too. C. Henchmani is 

 seldom seen, although very pleasing and distinct. The 

 stronger-growing Chorozemas may be used as climbers 

 trained to wires, and grown in pots, not planted out in 

 the border. Chorozemas grow far more quickly than the 

 majority of hard-wooded subjects, and enjoy a compost 

 made up principally of peat mixed with sharp silver 

 sand, and of course the pots must fie very freely drained. 

 Very charming specimens may be grown in large pots, 

 and are sometimes trained over a wire balloon-like frame- 

 work. The beginner is advised, in the case of all hard- 

 wooded plants, to purchase healthy specimens and not 

 to attempt to grow the plants from cuttings. These, how- 

 ever, in the case of the Chorozemas are not difficult to 

 strike, taking them off with a heel attached in summer, 

 and putting them round the sides of 6in. pots. Place 

 them in a propagating house, and when rooted pot 

 on in the usual way, pinching out the points of the shoots 

 at fust, otherwise the growth will become too long. 

 Shade when the sun is too powerful, and after each pot- 

 ting keep the house close until the plants have recovered 

 from the shift. The more vigorous Chorozemas are very 

 pretty when the shoots are simply trained to sticks placed 

 in (he pots; the graceful growths are lined with flowers 

 in the spring, and will remain in condition for some 

 weeks. This way of training them is preferable to the 

 more formal balloon-like support. 



Correa. — Ilard-wooded plants rarely seen in gardens, but 

 possessing considerable attraction, as the flowers of such 

 kinds as C. cardinalis and C. bicolor are very brightly 

 coloured. The hybrid race originated by crossing 

 C. speciosa and C. virens. Correas are not so trouble- 

 some to manage as many things belonging to the hard- 

 wooded section of greenhouse plants, and they remain in 

 flower for some months. Give peat and sharp silver 

 sand as soil, and the compost must be good, as it is 

 desirable not to disturb the ball of the old plant when 

 repotting is carried out. Cuttings of young, moderately- 



ripened shoots resulting from cutting back a pi nt in 

 February will strike freely, treating ihem in the usual 

 way, that is, after they have rooted pot them off singly, 

 and maintain a moist and shaded condition of things 

 after each disturbance. When thoroughly established, it 

 is not advisable to repot more than once in the course of 

 the year, that to take place in spring. Beware of scale, 

 which is such an unpleasant foe that if a young plant is 

 discovered to be affected with it it should be destroyed. 

 Once scale becomes established, it is impossible to cleanse 

 the growths. 



Ericas. — This is one of the most useful of all the hard- 

 wooded families. The species and varieties are very 

 numerous, and natives for the most part of the Cape 

 of Good Hope. Of late years, un r ortunately in some 

 respects, hard-wooded plants have gone greatly out of 

 favour. One no longer sees the big show specimens 

 which were the subject of endless care and attention, 

 fa which one may be thankful, but the Heaths are useful 

 decorative plants, which keep the greenhouse bright 

 during the winter months. Individually the flowers are 

 not showy, but collectively they make a brave display, their 

 waxy character and charming tints being unlike the 

 majority of things under glass during their season. It 

 must ever be remembered, however, that Heaths are not 

 everyone's plants. They are not as readily grown as the 

 Pelargonium or Fuchsia, and for this rea on should not 

 be amongst the first things chosen by the beginner, 

 whilst to propagate them successfully is a difficult task. 



The soil should be peat, making it very firm, especially 

 in the case of the slow-growing kinds. Also thoroughly 

 drain the pots by placing over the hole in the bottom a 

 large concave crock, filling up with smaller pieces. 

 This draining of the pots is one of the most important 

 operations in connection with their cultivation. It is 

 essential to even moderate success that water should pass 

 away freely. Mix some sharp silver sand with the compost, 

 especially when growing varieties of slow growth, otherwise 

 ii w ill become sour and not congenial to the roots. When 

 the Heaths are in full growth ample ventilation is necessary, 

 but not until they are well established. When growth 

 begins, pinch out the tips of the shoots and give freer 

 ventilation. During the warm summer nights air may be 

 given to the frame or greenhouse. At all times pay great 

 attention to watering. Hard-wooded plants are more 

 difficult than any other things to maintain in vigorous 

 he tlth, and mistakes in watering lead to disastrous results. 

 Go over every plant almost, and never trust watering to 

 inexperienced hands. Never place the plants away from 

 the light, otherwise the shoots will become lank and 

 llou c i less. The best season to pot Heaths is about the 

 end of February, and ram the soil hard, making it as firm 

 as the old ball ; if this is not di ne, when water is given it 

 will run i hrough the new compost and leave the centre dry. 



When an increase of stock is desired, the way to proceed 

 is to take cuttings of the points of young shoots in early 

 August, and put them closely round the side of 5in. pots, 

 which should be filled with fine peat and sharp silver sand, 

 Idling there be a layer of sand upon the surface. Moisten 

 the cuttings occasionally with water, and transfer to a 

 p opagating pit, covering the pots with a hand-light to 

 promote quick rooting. When rooted remove the glasses, 

 and in spring pot them off singly into small pots, never 

 forgetting that free drainage is essential. The soil for 

 the first potting should be lighter than for subsequent 

 shifts, and do not give water at once, not indeed until 

 root growth beg ns. Let the young plants be kept close 

 for 1 time after potting, but always stand them near the 

 glass. 



Although air is necessary, this does not signify cold 

 draughts which result from opening side ventilators. 

 When thoroughly established, a few weeks' exposure to 

 the open air, say from about early August until September, 

 will be beneficial, choosing a position where they will 

 be under constant observation. Stand them upon a 

 surface of coal ashes which will prevent worms from 

 disturbing the drainage, and year by year the routine of 

 culture will be similar. 



