CULTIVATION OF ORCHIDS. 



327 



D. suavissimum, 1). sulcatum, D. chrysotonum, and 1). Guibertianum grow well in puts, the 

 rare D. Harveyanum in a shallow pan, while 0. Lowi and D. omentum are happier 

 upon block's of wood, whitethorn being the most suitable. The whole of this section requires 

 a warm moist temperature and rather shady position. The same remarks apply to the 

 pretty D. Jenkensi, which should be fastened to a block' of dry apple wood, the bark' being 

 taken off some time prior to use. D. Brymerianum, L). macrophyllum, D. chrysanthum, 

 D. Falconeri and its distinct variety giganteum should be grown in an intermediate temperature 

 the whole \ ear round, w hile 1). mf andibulum, 1). Jamesianum, 1). lin^ueforme, D. teretifolium, 

 D. speciosum, and D. Kingianum should be grown in a sunny corner of the cool greenhouse. 



Orchids which flower during winter are highly appreciated, and perhaps none 

 more so than the deciduous Calanthes. Where a number of forms can be accommodated, 

 a succession of bloom may be kept up for three or four months. All of the C. vestita 

 section, comprising C. Veitchi, C. V. alba, C. Victoria Regina, C. Sedeni, C. Sanihurstiana, 

 C. be 1 1 a , C Burfor liense, C. Harrisi, C. rubro-oculata, C. luteo-oculata, and C. nivea, 

 are the first to open their flowers in November, and with care last well into January. 

 When these are past their best, C. Regnierii, C. Sanderiana, C. William Murray, C. Bryan, 

 C Stevensi, C. Turned, and C. nivalis commence to open ant wall continue to produce flowers 

 until the end of March. To cultivate these Calanthes successfully the ordinary stove treatment, 

 as far as atmospheric conditions are concerned, suits them admirably. Owing to the large quantities 

 of water required when in full growth, the soil becomes completely worn out by the end of the 

 growing season, therefore it is necessary to repot annually. The best time for repotting is 

 when the new growths are a 

 few inches high, or just before 

 the young roots begin to push 

 out. The whole of the soil 

 should be shaken away from 

 the old pseudo-bulbs, the dead 

 roots shortened to about iin., 

 and the pots should be small, 

 although, of course, of various 

 sizes to suit the plants. As 

 all Orchids require thorough 

 drainage, about half the pot 

 may be filled with crock's, 

 over which place a thin layer 

 of turf)' loam or Sphagnum 

 Moss. The soil is of great 

 importance, and should be 

 rich and retentive, consisting 

 of one-half good fibrous loam, 

 one-fourth oak-leaf soil (well 

 decayed), and one - fourth 

 finely - chopped Sphagnum 

 Moss and coarse silver sand, 

 the whole being well mixed 

 together. When the pots are 

 being filled up, shake down 

 the soil firmly to about 

 iin. of the rim, then the 

 pseudo-bulb should be placed 



on the surface, and be made udontoglossum crispum (Alexandra.) 



