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The century eook of gardening. 



firm by pressing more soil upon the remnants of the root, at the same time just covering the 

 base of the young growth. This will leave about half an inch, of space to hold water. 



After repotting the bulbs, stand the pots on the lightest side of the East Indian 

 house or plant stove, and for the first few weeks give no water, merely damping between 

 the pots twice or thrice every day, according to the weather. When the growths show 

 signs of progressing, a little water may be given, and the quantity gradually increased 

 until the plants are in full vigour, when an abundance is essential. In the height of the 

 growing season an alternate watt-ring with weak liquid cow manure will be beneficial, 

 and tend to insure a good display of bloom. Towards the end of the year, when the first 

 fbwers commence to open, it is advisable to gradually lessen the amount of water, and by 

 the time the foliage has disappeared it should be discontinued altogether. After the spikes 

 ate cut, the plants will be at rest, and may be arranged upon a dry shelf in the warm 

 house, giving no water whilst in a dormant state. Thunia Marshallia?, T. Bensoniae, 

 T. Brymeriana, T. Veitchi, T. candidissima, T. alba, and T. pulchra should be grown on 

 the lightest side of the house in almost full sunshine. They need to be repotted annually, 

 exactly as advised for the Calanthes. Place them with the tips of the bulbs nearly 

 touching the roof glass, and give them an abundance of water during growth. When the 

 flowers are over, stand the plar.t; in a cool greenhouse, and expose them to full sunshine, 

 so as to consolidate the long pseudo-bulbs. After the leaves have fallen, keep the plants 

 quite dry at the root until growth recommences. Few groups of plants produce such 

 remarkable and interesting flowers as the following: Catasetum Bungerothi, C. tabulare, 

 C. scurra, C. barbatum, C. longifolium, C. spinosum, C. maculatum, C. discolor, 

 C. Imshootianum, C. Cla-sianum, Mormodes pardinum, M. buccinator, M. Rolfae, M. Hookeras, 

 M. luxatum eburneum, Cycnoches versicolor, C. peruvianum, C. chlorochilom, 

 C. Egertonianum, and C. pentadactylon. All these Orchids should be grown in small shallow 

 pans having a wire handle attached, so as to bring the plants well up to the roof glass. 

 This is an important point, as a maximum amount of light is essential to their welfare. 



When the plants commence to grow shake them out of the old soil and repot afresh in a 

 compost of peat and chopped Moss with a moderate quantity of small crock's mixed with 

 it. Water should be afforded as recommended for the Calanthes, and the plants, being 

 deciduous, must be kept thoroughly dry at the rout during the long resting period. The 

 handsome Oncidium Lanceanum, O. hoematochilum, and O. guttatum should also be grown 

 on the lightest side of the house. Basket culture seems to suit them admirably, using a 

 mixture of rough peat and Moss for them to root in. These remarks apply also to the 

 yellow-flowered Oncidium ampliatum, w hich should be removed to a cool part of the 

 Cattleya house when at rest, and be kept rather dry at the root. When in bloom, 

 Vanda teres and V. Hookeriana are always admired. To grow them successfully and secure 

 an annual display of flowers special treatment is necessary. The principal requirements of 

 both species are sunshine and moisture, especiallv during the growing period. A hot sunny 

 corner of the plant stove would suit them, syringing well overhead several times a day 

 during active growth. When insufficient water is given the terete leaves shrivel and fall 

 off. During the dull days of winter the plants will not require so much water, but they 

 should be syringed often enough to prevent the stems or leaves from shrivelling. Being 

 tall-growing plants, some support is required, and a good method is to tie them to teak 

 rods, around which the long roots entwine luxuriantly. The lower part of the rod should 

 be inserted into a pot, and made firm w ith crock's, surfacing the drainage with a layer of 

 living Sphagnum Moss. To economise space, from four to six stems may be grown in a 

 ioin. pot, arranging the rods at even distances apart to allow a free circulation of air 

 amongst the roots. Other Orchids of similar growth requiring the same means of support 

 are: Camarotis purpurea, Trichoglottis fasciata, Angroe:um ' Scottianum, Brassavola Perrini, 

 B. stricta, and B. venosa. Like the preceding species they succeed in a high temperature, 



