540 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



roots quickly, and thus grow away freely the first season. The 

 time named is undoubtedly the best, but one would rather 

 plant in March than wait until another season. Trees 

 planted in March make roots freely the first season if mois- 

 ture is supplied to them in the case of a drought setting in. 

 If these trees do not make much top growth the first year the 

 roots progress, and surely trees with an abundance of newly- 

 formed roots are in a better condition than those recently 

 planted. 



The preparation of the site for planting the trees, no 

 matter of what form of training they are, is an important 

 detail. Too often the failure of trees to gro w might be traced 

 to faulty methods of preparing the holes or stations. In all 

 cases it is wise to deeply 

 dig the soil. W here it is 

 heavy and retentive of 

 moisture, and a quick 

 percolation from heavy 

 rains would be difficult if 

 the subsoil is not moved, 

 it is wise to trench the 

 soil 2 ft. deep. If a planta- 

 tion is to be entirely 

 made, it is a good plan to 

 trench the whole of the 

 soil, I nit in the case of 

 planting one or a few 

 trees, holes 4ft. square on 

 the surface should be- 

 taken out 2ft. deep, 

 thoroughly breaking up 

 the subsoil another bin. 

 deep and leaving it there. 

 Return the remainder of 

 the soil inexactly the same 

 way as it was taken out. 

 In 1 his way the surface soil 

 will remain on the top. 

 The holes should be got 

 ready fully a month before 

 the trees are planted, to 

 allow time for the soil to 

 settle down to somewhere 

 near its proper level. 

 When the trees are 

 received from the nursery 

 the roots should be exa- 

 mined, any bruised or 

 fibreless ones being pruned 

 to induce fibrous roots to 

 form. Instead of pruning 

 the roots in a downward 

 direction, as is frequently 

 done, the cut should be 

 made upward. The reason 

 for this is that at the 

 extreme portion of the cut 

 roots push most strongly. 

 It is easy to see the object 

 of cutting upwards, viz., 

 inducing the roots to 

 grow near the surface, 

 where they should lie, 

 to receive full benefit 



from the sun's warmth. When cut downwards the roots 

 penetrate more deeply to the cold subsoil. This is a 

 fruitful source of canker in some soil. Some growers 

 advise a free use of farmyard manure to be added to the 

 natural soil at planting lime. This is, however, unwise, 

 as richness of the soil incites a too free growth, which 

 is liable to be soft and sappy, and is more troublesome to 

 ripen. 



The thorough ripening of the wood of all fruit trees, 

 whether in the open or under glass, is absolutely necessary 

 to ensure a full crop of fruit. The foundation for this is 

 or should be laid at the time of planting by keeping the 

 roots near the surface. A compost of roadside refuse, 

 decayed vegetable matter, and wood ashes is a great 



position. 



A SINGLE POT APPLE 



encouragement to quick and free root action. Into this the 

 roots run freely, making much fibre. 



Choose a dry day for planting, and spread a small quantity 

 of the prepared compost over the natural soil immediately 

 where the tree is to be planted ; stand the tree upon the 

 compost, spread the roots out as thinly as possible, 

 cover them with the compost named, and well work the 

 soil in amongst the roots so that they are evenly distributed. 

 Add some of the natural soil and a. small quantity of half- 

 rotted horse manure if the soil is poor in quality. If turf 

 is obtainable chop ir line and add that ins:ead of the 

 manure. Tread the soil firmly down to keep the tree in 

 As a guide to correct planting the uppermost 

 roots 011 ht not to be more 

 than ain. from the surface. 



Standards or tall bushes 

 will require some support 

 lor a year or two until the 

 roots have taken full 

 possession of the soil. If 

 they are allowed to sway 

 .r about after planting, a 



quick root action cannot 

 lake place, and con-e- 

 'jSfe quently retarded growth 



w.. &^ 'M follows. Stout stakes 



driven deeply into the soil 

 Cln. away from the stem 

 ol the tree will be neces- 

 sary for standards. These 

 slakes need not be more 

 than 4ft. out of the ground, 

 as taller stakes possess no 

 advantage. 



In the place of the 

 orthodox piece of sacking, 

 hay or cloth tied ground 

 the stem of the tree 

 opposite to the top of the 

 stake will prevent the 

 stake injuring the tree 

 itself. Withes made by 

 twisting small Hazel or 

 Willow shoots are useful 

 to tie with. In the 

 absence of these small 

 galvanised wire is a good 

 substitute. First place 

 a small wisp of straw on 

 each side of the tree to 

 prevent the ligature bruis- 

 ing the bark, make this 

 last round the tree by the 

 withy or wire, and bind 

 this also round the stake, 

 making the whole — 

 bandage and tree - quite 

 secure to the stake, yet 

 at a distance away. The 

 continual swaying to and 

 fro of the tree is sure to 

 loosen the bands when 

 the stakes are put in in 

 the orthodox manner. 

 All newly-planted trees should be mulched at once. 

 This really means covering the surface with half-decayed 

 horse manure 3m. thick for a distance of 2ft. around each 

 tree. This surface covering prevents the roots being frozen 

 during the winter. Not that such a thing would kill the 

 tree, but it is severely checked. The evaporation of moisture 

 from the soil the following summer, if it be a dry one, is all 

 against free root action. The roots under a covering of this sort 

 are kept cool and moist during the hottest weather, enabling 

 the tree to make satisfactory growth. A mulching of any 

 kind of material, even if it be straw, encourages surface root 

 action. The absence of it drives the roots downwards in 

 quest of moisture denied them near the surface. 



Pruning the trees the same season they are planted is a 



