512 THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



a method of managing the branches will produce a crop of 

 iruit in two or three years' time without any interference 

 with the roots. 



Root Pruning - . — If the desired space is not available 

 for branch expansion the roots must be corrected. The 

 cause of so much growth in the branches and no fruit is 

 that the roots run so deep and are devo : d of fibre. A 

 check to the rampant growth of both brandies and roots 

 is then necessary; this is best done by root pruning. 

 The proper method of root pruning is to cut a trench 

 around the tree at a distance from it proportionate to its age 

 and size at the end of September. For instance, for a tree 

 planted three years 2ft. from the stem would suffice ; one 

 planted ten years should not be interfered with nearer than 

 4ft. from the stem. The trench need not be cut wider 

 than necessary to ascertain the depth of the roots. The 

 object of digging the trench is to sever all fibreless roots 

 that one comes in contact with, tiiese being the cause of 

 coarse growth. When the roots are neatly pruned in an 

 upward direction small fibres push from their extremities. 

 Such a check to growth induces fertility in the formation 

 of fruit buds instead of rank growth only. Fiil up the 

 trench, treading the soil in firmly. A small portion 

 of such a compost as previously advised put about the 

 severed roots will induce a quicker growth than the ordinary 

 soil and encourage more fibre to form. 



Canker in Apple trees is an evil difficult to overcome. 

 Some sorts are more prone to it than others. Trees of any 

 variety that are deeply planted in cold wet soil are always 

 more liable to this disease than others properly manageJ. 

 Trees up to ten years of age that exhibit signs of canker 



should be replanted, removing the 

 roots, lifting the 

 tree on to the 

 surface, and sub- 

 stituting entirely 

 fresh soil. Road- 

 side refuse will 

 cure canker, any- 

 thing that will 

 tend to encourage 

 improved root 

 action being 

 desirable. 



Apple trees, 

 like all other fruit 

 trees, require 

 stimulating food 

 at some time or 

 another. T h e 

 manner in which 

 they progress is 

 the best guide. 

 Trees that make 

 shoots over lit. 

 long annuall v 

 and are not over- 

 burdened with 

 fruit, require little 

 or no aid. On 

 die contrary, trees 

 that make less 

 growth than chat 

 suggested -la 

 require a stimu- 

 1 a n t . Half- 

 decayed farmyard 

 manure, wood 

 ashes, and 

 decayed vegetable 

 refuse, forked into 

 the .soil amongst 

 the roots in 

 November, can- 

 not be excelled as 

 an aid to im. 

 proved growth. 

 Basic slag and 



>ulk of the soil from th 



ESPALIER ON PiLLAR. 



kainit, 40Z. of the former and 2oz. of the latter to one 

 square yard, form useful aids, and so does bone meal or 

 superphosphate or dissolved bone. Liquid manure is a 

 capital stimulant, even if applied during the winter months 

 when the weather is dry. This is an excellent method ot 

 renovating old trees or grass where the roots are too far 

 from the surface to admit of solid manure ever reaching 

 them. 



THE APRICOT. 



The Apricot is a delicious stone fruit, as rich in flavour 

 as in colour. In this country it is impossible to grow 

 standard trees. They must receive the protection of a wall, 

 and during the spring frosts must be kept away from the 

 expanded flowers. Another important point is to secure a 

 good aspect, though in sheltered gardens the trees need not 

 have a full southern exposure, as success will come on an east 

 wall. Some of the strongest and most fertile trees are 

 upon this aspect. Always remember that the Apricot 

 resents much pruning by ''gumming," which results in 

 ultimate collapse. It is a tree that will thrive against the 

 gable ends of buildings where the eaves project a few 

 inches. 



The best soil is a deep, well-drained loam, preferably on 

 limestone. If the subsoil should be either clay or gravel, 

 some means must be taken to keep the roots out of it, or in 

 the future with little warning the trees may collapse. There 

 are several ways of managing the roots. The best plan is, 

 after excavating the site lor the trees 2^ft. deep or so, to 

 place a bed of concrete 6:n. in thickness and about 5ft. or 

 6ft. square. On this, when the concrete is dry and firm, 

 make the bed for the tree. Any soil that will grow good 



crops of Wheat 

 or Beans will 

 X •'''\'^^fat- produce an 

 Wft . 'ivKQ&TBvk abundance of 

 Apricots. Bor- 

 ders have been 

 made for these 

 luscious fruits 

 with old turfy 

 loam from a pas- 

 ture, but the 

 result did not 

 answer expecta- 

 tions ; the rotten 

 turf was too rich. 

 The trees grew 

 away fast — too 

 fast, indeed ; and 

 when they should 

 have been in 

 their prime the 

 branches com- 

 menced dying in a 

 way unfortunately 

 too common wit'j 

 Apricot trees 

 which have had a 

 too vigorous 

 youth. Better 

 plant in the 

 natural soil if it 

 is good and suit- 

 able, otherwise 

 cart some in from 

 a Wheat or Bean 

 stubble, mixing 

 with it, if deficient 

 in lime, some old 

 plaster or moitar 

 rubble from 

 demolished 

 buildings. 



Whatever 

 manure Apricots 

 may require 

 should be given. 



