546 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



made must be well matured, not soft, green, and sappy. 

 When Figs are required in quantity over as long a 

 period as possible, not only are the trees forced in pots, 

 but also planted in a narrow border on the back walls 

 of forced vineries. Though no fruit of any value is obtained 

 from the lower part of the wall, as this is shaded by the 

 vines at the upper portion, a fair crop is secured, the fruit 

 being of excellent size and quality. On the other hand, of 

 course, the Vine must not be allowed to grow to the top of 

 the house, but give 4ft. space for light to reach the Figs, and 

 do not let the Fig-wood get at all crowded. Many fail 

 with Fig trees in vineries, as too much is attempted. The 

 Figs do not succeed when entirely shaded, and must have 

 close attention in the way of stopping and pruning. 



Pot trees started, say, in November, will produce ripe 

 fruits at the end of March, if such varieties as the St. John 

 and Pingo de Mel are grown. As regards quality they do 

 not approach the Negro Largo, or even Brown Turkey, but 

 the latter are less reliable, as the fruits of the two early kinds 

 named remain on the trees when others drop. Unfortunately, 

 early forced Figs are liable to drop from the trees just at the 

 time they make their final swelling, and the two kinds advised 

 do imt do this. For later forcing, say started early in the 

 year, these remarks do not apply. For that period there is 

 abundant choice, and if few trees are grown there is no better 

 all round variety than Brown Turkey, a large, excellent fruit, 

 that gives two crops a year. To this may be added 

 Bourjassotte Grise, a large dark fruit with deep red flesh, 

 very juicy and rich. Violette Sepor is a large fruit, and 

 though distinct from Brown Turkey, one of the best for 

 forcing ; it is ol luscious flavour, and bears very freely. For 

 late pot work Negro Largo is one of the best ; indeed, it 



is re suitable than for early forcing. This is one of the 



richest of the dark-coloured fruits, and most of them 

 succeed better when given ample time to mature. 



A few wurds as to temperatures. A low one at the start 

 is advisable, but at the same time much depends upon the 

 weather. II mild, iodeg. more is sale ; that is. if the glass 

 stands at 45dcg. in the open, 55deg. to 6odeg. must lie 

 given. At the same time it is well to give extra warmth in 

 tlie way of bottom-heat if it can be afforded, say 7odeg. to 

 8odeg This pushes out the embryo fruits and the growth 

 is stronger. In six weeks from starting the heat mav be 

 increased from Sdeg. to iodeg. , and avoid always a high 

 night temperature. This must ahvavs lie iodeg. lower, 

 and in fine weather, alter the trees are in their forcing 

 quarters, syringe over them twice daily until the fruits are 

 of good size, as red spider and scale are troublesome pests 

 when the trees are grow n in a dry house. 



Thinning the fruit on pot trees should not be overlooked, 

 as it is better to have three fine fruits than a dozen poor 

 ones. Figs also crop too freely, hence they need severe 

 thinning after they have attained the size of Walnuts. 



Stopping and feeding are equally important. Rub eft 

 small weak shoots in the centre of the trees, and those with 

 fruit on must be stopped, that is, pinched at the fourth leaf 

 or point from their base. When the shoot is allowed to 

 grow the fruit will probably refuse to swell, but in time 

 turn yellow and drop. By stopping, fruit will appear at the 

 axil of each leaf. These will form the second crop, and, 

 say, if the fust crop is taken in May, the second, with good 

 culture, will be ripe ten weeks later, and the same process 

 as regards stopping must go on as above ; indeed, at all 

 times, unless a new leader is needed or the trees are required 

 larger, shoots should be slopped at the fourth or fifth leaf 

 during growth. Feeding with pot trees is important, as the 

 root, having a small rooting space, needs plenty of food. 

 Liquid manure and top-dressings of rich fertilisers are the 

 best. From the start to the finish pot Figs should never lie 

 dry at the roots, especially whilst carrying a crop. Re- 

 potting every autumn is also needed until the trees become 

 too large, when feeding and top-dressing must suffice. A 

 large shi t should be avoided, ami over-rich soils also. Good 

 loam with mortar rubble will be best, with a sprinkling of 

 bone meal and of wood ashes. Thoroughly ram the soil as 

 the work proceeds. At the start little root nioi-ture will be 

 needed, the daily syringing keeping lire trees sufficiently 

 moist. 



Planted-OUt trees in hOUSCS need much the same 

 treatment as regards temperature, soils at planting, disbudding 

 weak shoots, and rigid stopping ; bui it will be necessary to 

 allow shoots to develop their full length in various parts of 

 the tree if trained on a trellis or wall. F2ach year some old 

 fruiting wood must be cut out, and tie in the new wood 

 trained in for this purpose. This new wood, if the trees are 

 at all thick, will be poor, as it needs light and sun to get 

 properly matured. As regards varieties, planting, and 

 cropping, most of the varieties recommended for glowing 

 in pots will succeed well planted out, but a few may be 

 omitted ; for instance, the Brown Turkey is the best of all 

 the large black fruits. Such as Negro Largo need more care, 

 as if they have a free root run there will be few fruits ; 

 indeed, even for Negro Largo a restricted root run is best, 

 and this applies to all varieties more or less. Trees fifty 

 years old in a 3ft. border will crop well. It is well to only 

 give a small border at the start, as it can be added to if 

 necessary as the trees attain size. Planting should be 

 carried out, say, in March or April, and the trees only 

 slightly forced the first season. The aim of the cultivator 

 should be to get the shoots well arranged over the trellis, as 

 it is an easy matter to fill in afterwards, and, of course, 

 main shoots or leaders must not be stopped, unless it is 

 necessary to get more breaks from the base, but the latter 

 will readily till in later. Unlike the Peach, the Fig makes 

 wood freely from all parts of the tree. 



In planting, use the same compost as for pot trees, and 

 avoid rank manures at the start, which promote gross wood. 

 Stopping fruiting shoots is equally important as in the 

 case of pot trees. Once sufficient leaders are obtained — and 

 sucker growth from the base is not advisable — it is far better 

 to get all growths from one centre, or at least in the case of 

 trees planted out from three, and all shoots or stems issue 

 from these. Trees forced will produce two crops of such 

 kinds as White and Black Ischia — a small but delicious fruit 

 and an enormous cropper — also Osborn's Prolific, which is 

 much like Brown Turkey in quality, whilst also may be recom- 

 mended the Early Violet, a small fruit, Black Marseilles, 

 Brunswick, and the White Marseilles ; indeed, there is no 

 lack of variety, but avoid overcropping, as these kinds bear 

 heavy en ips. 



As regards varieties for the open wall, one must exercise 

 care, as in many parts of the kingdom Figs cannot be 

 successfully grown, and in others Brown Turkey, Brunswick, 

 and White Marseilles are the best kinds ; but in Sussex, 

 not far from the coast, they do well as standards or bush 

 trees, with a single stem a few feet from the soil. F'ew can 

 rely upon bush trees, but must trust to wall 1 ulture. Much 

 the same advice is applicable as for forced trees as regards 

 soils and thinning of wood. Of course in the open less 

 wood is made, as growth does not commence until late in 

 the spring, and there is stopping at the same time. It is 

 advisable to train in young wood to allow old barren wood 

 to be cut away. A south wall should be given, and planting 

 be done just before growth begins. Give the trees ample 

 space, 15ft. to 20ft. apart. A raised border is preferable 

 in heavy soil, and a liberal addition of old mortar rubble, 

 as lime or chalk is necessary. Train the main shoots I Sin. 

 apart, and do not stop any side ones needed to fill in space. 

 Others may he stopped as advised for pot trees. Of course 

 only one crop is obtained, and this needs the best attention. 

 A wide root-run is not required. Superb fruits may be 

 obtained on walls even close to a gravel path with only a 

 4ft. border. In one case the trees were 20ft. high against 

 a building and bore grand crops annually, as each year 

 new wood was laid in, old shoots being removed. The fruits 

 ripen in August and September, and the trees well repay for 

 copious supplies of liquid manure after the fruit is formed. 

 The latter shows on the points of last season's wood, and in 

 cold districts or on exposed walls it may be necessary to 

 detach the branches, tie in bundles, and cover over with 

 plenty of bracken or long straw to protect the wood. The 

 trees are sometimes thatched over, but most of the losses 

 in severe weather occur from bad ripening, and permitting 

 the trees to lie too thick with wood in the summer. It may be 

 well in thecase of veryold trees tooccasionally cut outold wood 

 ami train in. new branches, as the latter give the finest fruit. 



