Fruit culture. 



$49 



Many failures to grow outdoor Peaches might easily be 

 traced to want of knowledge in the cultural details rather 

 than any defect in climate. Those who set themselves the 

 task of securing a crop of Peaches from an open wall are 

 sure to succeed if they follow diligently the plain rules 

 here given. 



The Aspect and Wall are important. A southern 

 aspect is of course the best, although trees can be successfully 

 managed on both eastern and western positions. Trees 

 glowing against a south wall derive more advantage from 

 the sun early in the spring than do those growing against 

 any other wall. Such a summer as the last and that during 

 Jubilee year are the seasons for outdoor Peaches. ( Hn 

 summers are never too hot for this fruit. Trees on an east 

 wall are rather more liable to "blister," as they are more 

 exposed to cutting winds in April and May. A western 

 exposed wall is capital for giving a succession of fruit, as 

 the trees planted in such a position ripen a trifle later. 



Peach culture, like all 

 other things in the 

 garden, is made easier 

 and more successful by 

 having a good selection 

 of varieties. Some 

 Peaches are magnificent 

 when ripened under glass, 

 but in the open would 

 be quite a failure. Select 

 the best, then, is the 

 proper advice to give. 

 Unfortunately, some of 

 the earliest ripening 

 Peaches are of poor 

 quality. Alexander will 

 lipen its fruit in the 

 South of England against 

 a south wall in [uly, but 

 the quality is but poor. 

 Waterloo, a few days 

 later, is to be preferred. 

 Hale's Early is another 

 good earl)' Peach. 

 Dymond is one of the 

 best. Banington, Grosse 

 Mign onne, Bellegarde, 

 and Violette Hative are 

 all worthy of attention. 

 A more limited selection 

 would be Waterloo, 

 Grosse Mignonne, and 

 Dymond. 



It is useless planting 

 Peaches on walls less 

 than 6ft. high, as by 

 the time the trees reach 

 less than that in height 

 they are early crippled. 

 The best kind of tree is 

 that known as dwarf fan- 

 trained, obtainable from 

 any fruit-tree nursery- 

 man. They are generally 

 seven branches quite near 

 well furnished with I 

 are useful where a hi 



A PEACH TREE IN FLOWER 



furnished with from three to 

 the base. They should be 

 rous roots. Standard-trained trees 

 i wall has to be covered quickly. 

 For instance, if the gable of a house, say 2oft. high, is 

 available, a tree with a 4ft. or 5ft. stem may be planted 

 between two dwarf-trained. Space is thus quickly utilised 

 and time is gained. 



Soil in which Peaches succeed best is an important item. 

 The best kind of soil is a deep loam ; rather heavy in 

 character is better than the reverse. Chalk, peat, and 

 sand are objectionable for Peach culture. Where this 

 predominates more trouble will be experienced in obtaining 

 success, although this can be achieved. The whole of 

 the soil of the last-named type must be removed to 

 the depth of 2ft. and replaced with some other 

 compost. Freshly-cut turf 2in. thick is lasting, and 



beneficial to the trees where such can lie had. If, say, 

 from one to lour bushels of such material can be added 

 to the ordinary garden soil at planting time, so much the 

 better. Roadside refuse, decayed vegetable matter, and 

 wood ashes are all valuable constituents to add to any kind 

 of soil for Peach culture. Manure in any form ought not 

 to be added at planting time, as it is liable to induce too 

 strong and gross a growth, whi<h invariably ends in the 

 gumming of the branches and the entire failure of a fruit 

 crop. Stimulants are much better added later, when it is 

 plainly seen that the trees are in want of it ; this is easily 

 determined by the state of the growth they make. 



Planting' is a most important detail in culture. Early 

 in November, or directly the leaves turn yellow, is the 

 best time for planting. If planted then, the soil has not 

 lost all its summer warmth ; the trees may then make new 

 roots, and be in a good condition to start beely into growth 

 when the spring comes round. Far better to plant then 



than wait till fanuary, 

 but it is belter to plant 

 in March than not at all. 

 When the latter date is 

 chosen, if the trees receive 

 attention in watering and 

 mulching, the following 

 summer abundance of 

 roots are formed, and 

 surely such trees are in 

 a belter condition in 

 November than newly- 

 planted ones can be. 



One of the greatest 

 mistakes made by the 

 amateur is that of plant- 

 ing fruit trees too deep. 

 The roots are then so far 

 from the surface that 

 they lose all natural 

 benefit available by the 

 sun warming the soil near 

 the surface, and which so 

 much assists the matura- 

 tion ol the branches, 

 w ithout w hich a fruit crop 

 is not obtainable. The 

 roots nearest the top 

 ought not to be more 

 than 2in. deep. This 

 may serve as a guide to 

 planters. Choose a dry 

 day for planting, spread 

 the roots out evenly, and 

 cover them first with a 

 compost of soil, vegetable 

 refuse, old potting soil, 

 and wood ashes. Work 

 this well in amongst 

 the roots, and finish 

 oft" with some of the 

 ordinal)- soil if of a 

 sandy or loamy nature. 

 Tread the soil quite firm il it is not in a wet condition, 

 otherwise leave it for a few days until it dries gradually. 

 If the subsoil is of a heavy, retentive character, like clay, 

 or even approaching that, where the percolation of the 

 water from heavy rains will of necessity be slow, provision 

 should be made to drain the site by placing at the bottom 

 of each hole stones, clinkers, or broken bricks ill. thick. 

 Cover these with Ireshly-cut turf or a layer of straw to 

 prevent the fine soil washing down into the drainage and 

 choking the passage-way for water. Under the drainage 

 break up the subsoil 6in. deep to assist percolation I: 

 is only in retentive, adhesive soils that this drainage 

 is required. In the ordinary garden mould which is not 

 of a wet character artificial drainage is not needed. 

 Finish off w ith a mulching of hall-rotted horse manure 2111. 

 thick ; this preserves the roots from frost during the winter, 

 and arrests evaporation ol moisture from the soil should the 



