FRUIT CULTURE. 



5 5 l 



Sowing the Seeds. Sow lhc--e singly in small 6o-sized 

 pots, in preference to either sowing them in pans or at once 

 in the permanent bed, as some recommend. The dis- 

 advantage of the hist method is that much of the heat of 

 the h il-hed is spent just when it would be of the greatest 

 assistance to the plant. Those who follow this practice 

 claim for it that by so doing there is no danger of injury to 

 the roots of the Melon plants by removal, as is easily 

 possible w hen they have to be transplanted from the seed 

 pots. It is for this reason that many do not sow the seeds in 

 pans, as then the risk of injury to the roots ol the seedlings 

 is much greater than if the seedling, well rooted in the pot 

 in which it was sown, has only to he transferred from it 

 to another pot or lied ol soil. 



This brings the question as to whether it is advisable 

 to plant out the young Melon plants from ihe seed pots, or 

 to repot them into a larger si/e before finally planting them. 

 Unless it is intended to fruit the plants in large pots, 

 place them in their permanent quarters directly from the 

 small ones, as the)- then have a better opportunity of 

 getting established before coming into (lower than il 

 allowed to remain in pols for a longer period. Fill the 

 small pots in which the seeds are sown with a rather 

 light compost, consisting of loam and leaf mould in equal 

 quantities. Afterwards make 

 use of nothing hut loam for 

 Melon culture, and, provided 

 the loam is good, it cannot be 

 improved for this purpose by 

 the addition of any other 

 material. 



Place the seeds in the pots 

 about Jin. deep, and plunge 

 the latter closely together in a 

 mild hot-bed, and cover with 

 a piece of glass. Make the 

 soil moist before the seeds are 

 sown, so that no more water 

 is required until they have 

 germinated, except an occa- 

 sional damping with the syringe. 

 When the seed leaves are seen 

 pushing through the soil take 

 up the pots and place them on 

 a shelf close to the glass ; here 

 they soon strengthen and make 

 good progress. 



Very little water will 

 be needed until plenty ot 

 roots are made. Al night, 

 if the weather is at all cold, 

 throw a mat on the glass 

 outside, directly over where 

 the seedlings are, for being 

 so near to the glass if not thus protected they would 

 probably suffer. 



In the early part of the year about lour months elapse 

 between the sowing of the seed and the ripening of the 

 fruit, though in the warmer weather so long a time is not 

 necessary. By the beginning of February the young plants 

 for the early house should be sufficiently well rooted to 

 place in their permanent quarters. It is a great mistake to 

 plant Melons, especially early ones, in too large a body of 

 soil. Finer fruits are obtained if the roots are confined to 

 a comparatively small area. This latter does not become 

 sour, for it is so full of roots that the water given to it is 

 quickly absorbed. At a later stage the plants can also be 

 more efficiently assisted by stimulants when their roots are 

 confined than if allowed to ramble over a larger area 



Having made up a hot-bed of stable manure (about 2jft. 

 deep and 2ft. wide) in the house or pit intended to be 

 filled, cover the surface with three rows of turves, grass side 

 downwards. Upon the two outer rows place a second 

 layer, thus leaving a space between the two in the centre of 

 the bed. Fill this afterwards with chopped loam, from 

 which the loose soil has been shaken, so as to leave only 

 the fibrous portion for use. 



Before planting the Melons the whole bed of soil requires 



to be made firm. [f the young plants are carefully removed 

 from their pots, and have not been allowed to remain in 

 them long enough for the roots to have become matted 

 together, they will not suffer to any extent. Make a hole 

 in tin- loose soil of the centre of the bed to comfortably 

 receive the plant. Then plant and make firm. 



Planting and General Culture.- -For a few days 



after the hot-bed is finished it will probably be too hot to 

 allow of the Melons being planted. A thermometer should 

 be inserted in the bed to ascertain its heat ; when Sodeg. 

 are registered, with the temperature decreasing, the work 

 of planting may be safely commenced. Sufficient warmth 

 for the well-being of the Melons is maintained by the bed 

 without any further addition of heating materials. 



Il should, however, be mentioned that in our case two 

 rows of hot-water pipes run the whole length of the bed 

 underneath it. For the first month keep the night tem- 

 perature ol the house at 6Sdeg., and then raise it to 7odeg. 

 When the fruits are well set raise it to 73<leg., and 

 finally to 75deg. A light spraying, with the syringe, 

 ol lepid water several times daily, when the weather is 

 bright, greatly assists the plants. If possible the house 

 should also be moistened late in the evening, otherwise 

 before morning the atmosphere becomes very dry. This 

 has much to do with the 

 appearance of red spider, 

 which evidently thrives where 

 such conditions prevail. When 

 this pest appears heavy syring- 

 ing is usually resorted to in the 

 day, but at night the atmo- 

 sphere of the house is again far 

 too dry for the good of the 

 plants, especial'y when in cold 

 weather the pipes I ecome very 

 hot. As soon as the Melons 

 are established in their new 

 quarters, place the wire trellU 

 on which to train them in 

 position, suspended about ill. 

 fro 31 the roof. Before the 

 young plants reach the trellis 

 pinch out the points. This 

 causes them to push forth 

 several side shoots, the two 

 uppermost ol which are tied 

 to the trellis and the 

 remainder rubbed off. W hen 

 these two have grown about 

 iSin. along the trellis they 

 are also stopped. Several 

 laterals will again soon he 

 produced, and most pro- 

 bably some of these will bear 

 female flowers. The word " probably" is used, because it 

 is characteristic of some varieties to rarely produce fruit 

 upon the first lateral growths; it is not until these have 

 been stopped and the sub-laterals appear that female flowers 

 are obtained. When the flowers are seen to be opening 

 the atmosphere of the house should be kept drier, and more 

 air also is necessary. The Melon plant is monoecious, that 

 is, the male and female organs are enclosed in separate 

 flowers, although both flowers are on the same plant. In order, 

 therefore, to obtain properly-developed fruits it is necessary 

 that the pistillate or female flowers be fertilised by the pollen 

 of the staminate or male flowers. This is best accomplished by 

 plucking one of the latter, and after removing its corolla, 

 place it upon the stigma of the former. The pistillate 

 flower, which afterwards develops into the fruit, is easily 

 distinguished from the pollen-bearing flower by the ovary 

 (resembling a miniature Melon), which may be seen below 

 the corolla. It will be noticed that when these first 

 commence to open not more than two or three will be in the 

 same stage of development ; some will be fully open, while 

 others have not yet begun to expand. 



Unless a few fruits are required very early, it is not 

 advisable to " set " or fertilise any flowers until several are 

 as nearly as possible in the same condition, for if one fruit 



