552 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Marts to s\,cll much in advance of the others, it will 

 continue to develop at the expense of these, and probably 

 only one perfect fruit will be obtained. 



01 course, it is not always possible to find more than two 

 or three flowers in exactly the same stage, but if the plants 

 are pinched and trained as advised, the number "I ensuing 

 laterals will invariably give a good choice of flowers. Not 

 less than four or live should lie set, if this i, possible, as in 

 the course of a day or two it can easily be seen which are 

 likely to develop into the finest fruits; those not required 

 may then be removed. Early in the season three are 

 quite sufficient to leave on the plant if they are to properly 

 grow and mature; sometimes only two can be obtained. 

 Later in the year four fruits may remain on each plant. 

 The ultimate size of the fruit, however, needs 10 be con- 

 sidered when deciding how many fruits to remove. 



Some varieties of Melons produce small fruits; therefore 

 in such a case rather more might profitably be allowed to 

 ripen than if the plsnt were a large-fruited variety. Where 

 possible it is preferable to choose fruits that are some 

 distance up the trellis rather than those low down near the 

 stem, tor the former can le more easily attended to as 

 regards t\ ing, etc., and would also receive more sunlight 

 than the others. 



"fhe appearance of the Melon house, too, is much 

 improved if the fruits are regularly distributed over the 

 trellis than if all are together at the base of it. Alter the 

 fruits are set and have been 

 thinned to the required mini 

 ber, they should be encouraged 

 to swell as quickly as possible. 

 The Melon, being but a short- 

 lived and tender plant, is 

 mosl easily in jured if its growth 

 is checked in any way. It 

 will be necessary to support the 

 fruits in some manner as soon 

 as they become at all heavy. 

 II they develop as they ought 

 to do, the above operation 

 need not be done until three or 

 lour weeks after they are set. 



In some gardens the fruits 

 are supported by means of a 

 small piece of board placed 

 underneath and suspended from 

 the trellis by lour strings, 

 one at each corner. Moisture, 

 however, frequently settles on 

 the board, and is the means 

 of causing many of the fruits 

 to prematurely decay. A better way is to make use of 

 siring alone, which answers the purpose equally as well. 

 Use only two strings ; tie them lo the trellis so as to cross 

 each other under the fruit, thus forming a sling for the 

 hitler to rest in. 



During the time the fruits are swelling the planls will need 

 copious supplies ol water, as the soil will dry up quickly. 

 Applications of liquid manure are very beneficial at this 

 ] eriod, and may be given at least twice a week. Regulating 

 and stopping ol the shoots are necessary when the plants 

 are in lull growth. Each shoot that bears a fruit needs 

 pinching one leaf beyond this, and all laterals and sub- 

 later.ds that eventually appear require to lie regulated by 

 stopping according to the amount ol room vacant on the 

 trellis. All leaves allowed to remain must have sufficient 

 space for their proper development ; if they are crowded 

 together thev will be unable lo perform their functions, and 

 the plants will consequently suffer. 



It is well to pinch the shoots when they are young and 

 to do so gradually, going over them every day. By this 

 means the vigour of the plants, though not checked in 

 any way, will be directed to those parts where most 

 needed. When the fruits approach the ripening period 

 there are several cultural details that ought not to be 

 neglected, as fruits at this stage are easily spoiled. As soon 

 as signs of ripening are noticeable, less moisture and more 

 air should be given. 



In a hot and moist atmosphere the fruits may split. 

 Some varieties will behave thus even when great care is 

 taken to prevent it. If an excess of moisture be present, it 

 also invariably settles around the collar of the fruit, i.e., 

 where the latter is joined lo its stalk, and speedily causes 

 decay. Less water at the root is necessary at this time; 

 some cultivators cease watering altogether when the fruits 

 begin lo ripen. Although a certain dryness both of soil and 

 atmosphere with an increase of air are necessary for the full 

 development ol the flavour of the fruit of the Melon, if these 

 measures are adopted before the fruit is fully grown, it 

 would probably be found that instead of this having 

 increased in flavour, it was wanting in that most necessary 

 quality. 



Cutting 1 the Fruit. — When the stalk partially leaves the 

 fruit, a good indication is given that the latter is in a fit 

 condition to be cut. This does not always hold good, for 

 some varieties take a longer time to ripen than others. If 

 the top of the Melon, when pressed gently with the thumb, 

 feels slightly soft to the touch and a pleasant smell is also 

 emitted, one may be fairly sure that the fruit is ripe. 



The most suitable place in which to keep Melons when 

 thev are cut is a cool, airy fruit room, though if they are 

 slid rather hard, and yet have become detached from the 

 stalk, they ought to remain for another day or two in a sunny 

 position under glass. If the fruits are turned on their 

 sides instead of remaining upright when in the fruit 

 room, and tissue paper is 

 placed over them at night, 

 they keep much longer. This 

 latter precaution prevents 

 moisture settling around the 

 collar of the fruit, while it often 

 happens, especially if a Melon 

 is fully ripe, that if stood for 

 an)' length of time in an 

 upright position the base of it 

 becomes quite soli, thus ren- 

 dering the fruit useless. A few 

 of the leaves may be stripped 

 off immediately around the 

 Melon when ripening, in order 

 to admit air and all posdble 

 sunlight. 



Diseases. - Of all diseases 

 to which the Melon plant 

 is subject, that known as 

 i a n k e r is u nd ou b I ed 1 y 

 the most destructive. The 

 part of the plant affected 

 becomes soft, and, if pre- 

 ventive measures be not taken, quickly decays. The 

 base of the stem is usually the portion attacked. To 

 avoid this malady the cultivator should endeavour to keep 

 the stem hard and strong. All growths which push from 

 the axils of the leaves on the stem ought to be removed 

 when the plants are young, for if allowed to remain until 

 well grown they prevent a free circulation of air around the 

 stem, thus causing the latter to become soft and flabby. 

 When watering the lied, great care is necessary to ensuie 

 that the stems of the plants remain always perfectly dry. 

 No w ater should fall within I in. of the former. When the 

 shoots are allowed to grow and develop before stopping, 

 or removing a lot of foliage at once, canker is promoted ; 

 the shoots often die back to the stem instead of healing. 



An atmosphere continually saturated with moisture will 

 al-o weaken the plants, thus rendering them more liable to 

 canker. A good cure is Portland cement rubbed well 

 upon the parts affected ; it arrests decay and causes the 

 stem to become hard and dry again. Red spider also 

 frequently attacks the foliage, greatly disfiguring and 

 injuring it. Regularly syringe with clear water, and occa- 

 sionally with a solution of soft soap and wa'er. Take care 

 also that the house does not become hot and dry 



Melon Culture in Frames. — Melons may also be 

 successfully cultivated during the summer months on hot- 

 beds under frames. The plants should be ready for planting 

 out by the middle of May ; seed must be sown, therefore, 



