FRUIT CULTURE. 



557 



is the most generally practised, and is to be recommended. 

 The latter are well adapted for training upon curvilinear 

 trellises, similar to the famous ones in the Royal Gardens at 

 Frogmore. Trees fan-trained upon these are now still in 

 good bearing, though planted when the gardens wi re made 

 filly or more years ago. 



Spur Pruning Wall Trees. The Tear tree in a wild 

 state has thorny branches. These, however, under cultiva- 

 tion are replaced by shorl branches, technically known as 

 spurs, upon which are produced flower buds Spurs may 

 either be simple or compound. II not pruned they would 

 soon be too faraway from the wall to derive any benefit 

 from its warmth and shelter. In spur priming, the object 

 then should be to keep the spurs as near to the wall as 

 possible, and also to thin out and regulate to a suitable 

 distance any that may be crowded. As already mentioned, 

 natural spins are formed by the Pear, and these should 

 always be retained in preference to artificial ones. Some 

 varieties produce fruil spurs more easily and numerously 

 than do others ( In trees of this latter kind it is more 

 profitable to train in young wood, upon which fruit buds 



made six or seven leaves they may lie stopped. Some 

 side shoots will push as a result, and these also should be 

 pinched after having made two or three leaves. At the 

 winter pruning cut back those thai were checked when six 

 or seven leaves had developed to three or lour buds. In 

 all probability some of these will form flower buds. II, 

 however, it should happen that each proved to be a wood 

 bud when these pushed forth in the spring all should be 

 removed except the lowest. This would require to be 

 stopped after having made about six leaves, and in winter 

 pruned back to three or four eyes to encourage the forma- 

 tion of (lower buds at its base. The old wood projecting 

 beyond would, of course, be cut away. 



Unless the sun and air are able to have bee access to the 

 branches of the Pear tree an unfruitful state will ensue. 

 Il is by pruning that we endeavour to bring about the 

 former, so preventing the latter; by summer pinching we 

 prevent the shoots growing too strongly, thus oven rowding 

 and weakening each other, and also check the sap with the 

 object of causing fruit buds to form. 



At the winter pruning the shape ol the tree should be 



CORDON FRUIT TREES AT LILFORD HALL, OUNDLE. 



will form readily. " The Pear and the Apple w ill both 

 produce better and more abundant crops of fruit from 

 natural buds formed on shoots of two years' growth, if of 

 a proper character, and duly exposed to light during the 

 growing season, than upon all the artificial spurs that can 

 be created " (Mcintosh). To obtain this young wood, as 

 many firm, short-jointed shoots as can be conveniently laid 

 in between the older branches should be tied down in the 

 summer, at the same time removing all others likely to 

 shade those lied in. 



Pear Trees in the Open. — It the summer manage- 

 ment of Pear trees in the open is properly attended to 

 little pruning will be necessary in the winter-time. If the 

 shoots are allowed to grow unchecked during summer and 

 the following winter are cut back to within I in. or so of 

 their bases, from these remaining buds shoots will again 

 push the ensuing season, and a mass of crowded growths 

 will result. All summer shoots lor which no room can be 

 lound without causing overcrowding should be removed 

 altogether when growing, or, if there is still sufficient space 

 for the formation of more fruit spurs, as soon as they have 



properly regulated, removing all weak and badly placed 

 shoots ; leading branches growing inwards are shortened to 

 an outside hud. When spurs extend too far away from the 

 branch they need to he pruned back, as well as removed 

 when too close together. The buds of a spur may either 

 be flower buds or imperfectly formed ones that produce 

 leaves only. This latter kind, if allowed to become 

 numerous, will probably increase in vigour, thus tending to 

 prevent the formation of blossom buds. Such spurs, there- 

 fore, must either be thinned out or shortened back at the 

 winter pruning, to encourage fruit buds to form. Those on 

 the upper part of the tree may be cut nearly close, while on 

 the central and lower parts they must not be quite so 

 severely shortened. An equal flow of sap to all parts of the 

 tree will thus be encouraged. 



Root Pruning". — The practice of root pruning is often 

 most beneficial if judiciously carried out. Its obiect is to 

 check gross and luxuriant growth, or to prevent the roots 

 descending into a cold, damp subsoil. Trees worked 

 upon the Pear stock are more liable to both of these 

 conditions than those on the Quince. With regard to old 



