552 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



We will now follow 

 briefly the treatment i if the 

 young Vine during the 

 second year. As soon as 

 the cane has apparently 

 finished growing — 

 towards the end of Sep- 

 tember — cut it back to 

 about half its length, and 

 eventually, in the month 

 of December, give the final 

 pruning. In some cases 

 cut back to the last two 

 buds, while again four 

 buds may not be too many 

 to leave on the shortened 

 shoot. Usually, however, 

 the best practice at the 

 pruning of the first year's 

 growth, unless this be 

 exceptionally strong, is to 

 leave only two eyes — pro- 

 viding they are good and 

 sound — as the canes 

 resulting are stronger, and 

 furnish a better founda- 

 tion for the Vine than if 

 the shoots were allowed 

 to remain longer. Keep 

 the vinery perfectly cool 

 until late in the spring, 

 when close it and en- 

 courage a quick and 

 vigorous growth. This is 

 assisted, as before men- 

 tioned, by maintaining a 

 moist genial atmosphere 

 in the house, and by mak- 

 ing the most of the sun 

 heat during the summer months. If the Vines have grown 

 well the cane made during the second year should be of 

 sufficient si/e and strength to fie left, say, 5 ft. long, when 

 cut back in December. By that time it ought to be about the 

 thickness of one's thumb ; if not so thick as this, further 

 shortening is required, viz., to 3ft. or even less, according 

 to iti c< indilion. 



At pruning time all the side growths made during the 

 slimmer must be lenioved from that portion of the Vine 

 allowed to remain, for they are useless as permanent wood. 

 We now arrive at the time when the Vine has sufficient 

 vigour to produce fruit — not much, certainly, but the fact of 

 its having been successfully brought to a bearing condition 

 is some slight reward for all the care bestowed upon it. 



Summer Culture. Commence by shutting up the 

 vinery on the 1st of April. At that time the outside night 

 temperature is usually about 40deg. Fahr., so that no 

 difficulty will be experienced in keeping the house at 45deg. 

 during the night. For the next fortnight maintain the 

 thermometer as nearly as possible at 45deg. at night, and 

 in the day, if the weather be dull, a temperature of 55deg. 

 will be high enough. On a sunny day a little air must be 

 admitted when 6oJeg. are registered, and as the house 

 becomes warmer give more air proportionately, sufficient, 

 say, to prevent the glass rising above 75deg. Great care is 

 necessary in ventilating the vinery, especially after the buds 

 have burst into growth. 



The weather in the month of April is most changeable ; 

 more often than not bursts of sunshine occur, then cold 

 showers of rain, or perhaps a bright sun shining with a 

 keen, cold wind prevailing. It is during these trying 

 periods that the vinerv needs careful attention. 



Until the buds show signs of breaking syringe the Vines 

 six or seven times a day if the weather be bright, and at 

 least three or four times if the sun is not visible ; keep the 

 evaporating tanks on the hot-water pipes filled with water, 

 as the vapour given off counteracts the drying influence of 

 the hot pipes and produces a more genial atmosphere. 

 After the second week the night temperature of the vinery 



/SLACK ALICANTE GRAPES. 



beinc 



miy be raised to 4Sdeg., 

 allowing also a rise of 

 3dc-g. or 4deg. in the 

 day temperature before 

 air is admitted. In the 

 course of another ten 

 days keep the thermo- 

 meter at 5odeg. during 

 the night, and give no 

 air in the daytime until 

 it has reached &5deg. 

 These conditions prevail 

 for the following fortnight. 



The tender shoots 

 should have made their 

 appearance by now, and 

 great care will be neces- 

 sary in syringing and ven- 

 tilation. If the walls and 

 paths of the house are 

 well damped, the Vines 

 themselves, after the 

 shoots are a few inches 

 long, need not be syringed 

 so much as previous to 

 breaking. As soon as the 

 side shoots have grown 

 a lew inches, remove some 

 of them, for those retained 

 form the foundation of 

 the permanent fruiting 

 spurs, and require to lie 

 at least l6in. apart ; the 

 side growths, therefore, 

 must be regulated to as 

 near that distance as 

 possible. Next give a 

 further rise of 5deg., 

 advancing this, after 

 maintained for about ten days, to 5Sdeg. , which, 



alter a week's duration, gives place to a night tem- 

 perature of 6odeg. From this time until the Vines have 

 flowered and the berries are set no increase need be 

 made in the temperature of the house. As soon as the 

 shoots are about 15m. long tie them to the trellis to keep 

 them away from the glass. This requires extreme care, as the 

 young shoots are easily broken off at the base. Loop a long 

 piece of matting (raffia) over the shoot about halfway between 

 the middle and the growing end, and tie it to the trellis 

 sufficiently tight to keep it well away from the roof. When 

 the shoots have become stronger and harder, and again need 

 tying, they can be brought much lower without fear of 

 breakage. 



As before mentioned, not more than two or three 

 bunches must be left for the young Vine to bring to 

 maturity, so that as soon as it is possible to distinguish the 

 three best cut off all the remaining ones. If more than one 

 bunch appeir on the same shoot, that nearest to the base of 

 the latter should be left. 



The stopping of the shoots needs attention. Pinch the 

 fruit-bearing shoot two leaves beyond the bunch of fruit. 

 With the Vines planted at the distances apart already 

 mentioned, and a proper distance allowed between the 

 fruiting spurs, there will, in the case of most varieties, be no 

 room for the proper development of healthy foliage if these 

 shoots are allowed to remain a greater length. Stop them 

 while the shoot is still very young, so that only the point is 

 really removed. All should not be pinched on the same day. 

 A better plan is first to go over the strongest ones, and then 

 allow two or three days to elapse before stopping the others. 



The lateral growths, which afterwards develop from the 

 shortened shoot, need stopping after they have made one 

 leaf. The sub-laterals wdll also appear in due time, and 

 these, too, must not be allowed to make more than one leaf. 

 The atmospheric moisture in the house should be greatly 

 diminished when the Vines come into flower, for in order 

 that the flowers may be fertilised, or " set," a rather dry and 

 buoyant air should prevail. This condition facilitates tf|e 



