Cio 



THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 



bushes planted, or transplanted, as this is work better done 

 early than late. Also, where needed, continue to root 

 prune coarse woody trees. It is a good month, especially 

 on mild days, to go over wall trees and prune them, doing 

 this generally rather hard than otherwise, and in the case of 

 Pears that have become too thick-set with large spurs, cutting 

 some clean away to compel the formation of new shoots to 

 be pinched to form new spurs Figs especially should have 

 old branches cut out to make room for young ones, and 

 where the weather is very severe in the winter it is well to 

 unnail the trees, bundle them up by tying, and wrap them 

 in mats for a few months. Go on pruning all trees and 

 bushes in the open, burning the trimmings. A solution of 

 caustic soda, 2lb. , and of commercial potash, 2lb. , 

 dissolved in hot water, with 20 gallons of water added, 

 and 41b. of soft soap, makes a capital liquid with which 

 to gently spray all fruit trees and bushes to destroy 

 insect life. Get more Strawberry plants in pots into frames, 

 to bring them on gradually prior to putting them into 

 warmth to force later on. Complete the pruning of Vines, 

 Peaches, Nectarines, and similar trees under glass, and give 

 these during the winter two sprayings or gentle syringings 

 of the solution just described, as that is most efficacious in 

 clearing the trees and houses also. Fruit tree borders under 

 glass will be benefited now by removing a few inches of 

 the surface soil, adding a dressing of half-decayed manure and 

 strewing some fresh soil over that, and an occasional liberal 

 watering given through the winter, as Nature does outside, 

 will be productive of great good to Vines and trees. 



DECEMBER. 



The Flower and Indoor Garden.— This month 



little is in flower out of doors, chiefly Christmas Roses, 

 which provide plenty of welcome cut flowers when a hand- 

 glass is placed over a tuft in bud. This protection shields 

 the flowers, which otherwise would become bespattered 

 wilh soil. Clumps may be lifted also and brought under 

 glass. Chinese Primulas and Persian Cyclamens will keep 

 the greenhouse bright with colour. At this season watering 

 is an operation that must be carried out with extreme care. 

 There is no better plan of ascertaining whether a plant 

 requires water or not than by rapping the pot. If it gives 

 a clear ringing sound, then water is certainly needed ; but 

 if dull and heavy, sufficient has been given. When watering 

 give a good dose at each application ; never water in 

 driblets. Never let the greenhouse go below 4odeg. , 

 but a better temperature to maintain is one of 45deg. 

 Plant out trees and shrubs, Roses, and so forth, when 

 the weather is suitable. Forced Hyacinths are welcome 

 now. 



The Vegetable Garden. — The work in this department 

 will chiefly consist in preparation of the soil for future crops, 

 and one may do much in the way of digging, manuring, 

 and trenching the soil. Every advantage should be taken 

 when the ground is dry or frozen to wheel manure to the 

 plots that require this assistance. Avoid puddling the 

 soil, and all light or medium suils should be trenched 

 sufficiently early to enable frosts and winds to sweeten the 

 surface soil newly turned up. Forcing of vegetables will 



form an important work in this department. Seakale 

 should be placed in the forcing or Mushroom house every 

 fortnight in sufficient quantities to provide the supply. 

 Those without conveniences for forcing may cover the plants 

 in the open with pots, which should be smothered with 

 litter, but avoid overheating. To prevent this a goodly 

 portion of leaves mixed with the manure will make the heat 

 more lasting and less violent. Asparagus should be forced 

 under glass, and a gentle bottom heat, with a temperature of 

 6odeg. , will be sufficient Permanent beds should now be 

 prepared for forcing, to give a succession in February and 

 up to the time the beds in the open ground provide material 

 for cutting. Rhubarb will be in greater demand after the New 

 Year, and place roots of an early variety in the forcing house 

 every three weeks for the next two months. Radishes force 

 easily ; make a small sowing to give a supply in three 

 months. A few early Potato sets may now be started for 

 pot or frame work, to plant out early in the year. Endives 

 should be protected in the open, and that under glass covered 

 as needed for blanching. Choice vegetables, such as late 

 Cauliflower and early winter Broccoli, will need protection ; 

 if the heads are formed it wdl be well to lift, with roots 

 intact, and house in a cool place, as only a few degrees of 

 frost injure the lender flower. Celery should be protected, 

 and late plants receive their final earthing up. Free Lettuce 

 on a warm border hum all decaying matter, as damp is fatal 

 at this season. lift Jerusalem Artichokes, and sort and 

 clamp like Potatoes. Prepare the land for other crops, and 

 remove every trace of the Artichoke, as it soon spreads. 

 Protect Globe Artichokes with bracken or litter, and in 

 places where these plants winter badly a few shoots may be 

 potted up and housed under glass for planting out in April. 

 Cabbage plants in the open should be made firm by 

 trenching, and then moulded up to protect the stem growth. 

 Make up Mushroom beds monthly from now onwards 

 until the month of April. After that better crops are 

 secured from beds in the open if the Mushroom house is 

 at all warm. 



The Fruit Garden. — This month, though anything but 

 a cheery one to the fruit grower, is most interesting. Planting, 

 pruning, and cleansing are important, and the first named 

 should be proceeded with on all favourable occasions. It is 

 useless to plant in frozen ground ; and, though it is at times 

 difficult to escape frost, it is well to defer the work till the 

 soil is in suitable condition. Pruning of trees may proceed, 

 and, in many cases, it is wise to remove useless old spur 

 growths. Newly-planted trees should not be formed at 

 planting, but merely shortened back early in the spring. 

 Nail wall trees and give clean shreds or ties. Care is 

 needed in tying young trees to allow sufficient space for the 

 wood to swell. Trees covered with scale or moss may now 

 be cleansed, and give old walls that harbour insects a good 

 syringing of strong insecticide, detaching the trees from the 

 walls belore doing the work. Prune Currants and Goose- 

 berries where birds are not troublesome. Newly-planted 

 trees should be staked, and the surface soil mulched to 

 prevent frost injuring the roots. Detach young growths of 

 Peach and Nectarine trees from the wall to retard the buds, 

 and protect Figs. 



IT is now my pleasing duty to heartily thank all who have assisted in achieving the object 

 set forth when the CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING was commenced, that is, of making it a 

 " comprehensive work' for every lover of the garden." The task of illustrating the 

 book has been no light one, and particularly is this the case with regard to the pictures 

 of specimen flowers, vegetables, and fruits. For valuable assistance rendered in this 

 connection my best thanks are especially due to Messrs. Carter and Co., the famous 

 seedsmen, of High Holbom ; to Messrs. Sutton and Sons, w hose nurseries at Reading are 

 world known ; to Messrs. Kelway and Son of Langport ; Messrs. Barr and Son of Surbiton ; 

 Messrs. William Paul and Son of Waltham Cross; and Messrs. George Bunyard and Co. 

 of Maidstone. 



E. T. COOK, 



Editor of " The Garden.' 1 '' 



