IN THE MOREA. 



51 



on the green succeeded in this season of festivity to these female 

 gymnastics, until the evening closed on our gaiety. 



April 14. — We remained great part of the day at Cardamyla in 

 compliance with the wishes of our host and of his neighbours, and 

 partook of the amusements on the green. After dining with him 

 and his family, he attended us in his boat, the inland road being 

 scarcely passable from the stony rugged hills that it surmounts. We 

 viewed the situation of Leuctra, a small hamlet on the shore still re- 

 taining its ancient name, but found there few and inconsiderable 

 traces of antiquity. About two miles and a half from hence we came 

 to the little creek of Platsa, shut in by the rock of Pephnos, near 

 which was a tower, the residence of the Capitano Christeia, a chief to 

 whom we were recommended. 



We had sent our letters to this chief by a messenger from Carda- 

 myla, in consequence of which he met us at the port on our landing, 

 attended by a large train of followers. We took leave of our friends 

 of Cardamyla, who paid us a compliment at parting, not unusual in 

 this country, by firing all their rifles over our heads. As this was not 

 very carefully or regularly performed, and the pieces were always 

 loaded with ball, the ceremony was not altogether agreeable. The 

 tower of Capitano Christeia was at a small distance from the port, and 

 adjoining to it were out-buildings and a long hall of entertainment as 

 at Kitrees. 



Here, according to Pausanias, was formerly the little town of 

 Pephnos, the situation of which is now only marked by the rocky 

 islet of the port. The place was at that time inconsiderable, and the 

 island contained nothing, except two small bronze figures of Castor 

 and Pollux, which were, however, miraculously immovable, even by 

 the winter's storm and the sea which beat upon them. The miracle 

 is no longer performed, and the statues are gone. 



We walked from the shore with our host to his castle ; Capitano 

 Christeia, the owner of it, was one of the most powerful, and at the 

 same time the most active and turbulent chieftain in this district. 

 He had paid the price of the renown he had acquired, for he bore the 



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