378 EGYPT. 



Jan. 16. — We set out from Alexandria for a neighbouring village ; 

 we quitted the town about nine, and after an hour's riding towards 

 the east, crossed the Kalis; then travelled along E. S. E., having on 

 one side of the road to the right the lake Mareotis, and to the left 

 a lake of salt water, both close to the Kalis, which is the only 

 separation between them. The salt water lake is formed by an 

 inundation of the sea at the Seyd. At twenty minutes past one, 

 turning S. E. by E. we rode to Balactur, a village which we reached 

 a quarter past four. There were many Arab tents near it, and the 

 marks of many more all around. Then turning due east, arrived 

 at Cafala about a quarter past five. In the road, we past a great 

 many ruins ; on the left hand chiefly. The country is an entire flat ; 

 the villages are all situated on rising grounds, probably artificial hills 

 raised formerly to defend the inhabitants from the annual inundation 

 of the Nile. Many seem to have been the ruins of ancient cities. 

 We were kindly received by the Kaimacan in a single room, where 

 five of us slept together upon carpets spread out, with a covering 

 over each. The houses are all built of unburnt brick, square at the 

 bottom, and in form of a cupola at the top without any wood, which 

 in this country is scarce. 



The second morning we rode to a hill, about four miles distant ; 

 we were met by the Sheik of the Arabs encamped at the above 

 mentioned village with his attendants. The case of this Sheik is 

 particularly distressing. He has lately had his father murdered, 

 and been robbed of 100,000 crowns. His father had formed a friend- 

 ship with one of the Beys, who was employed in suppressing the 

 late revolt ; he was sent for one day by the Bey who assured him 

 that he had nothing to fear ; and calling for the Koran, swore that 

 nothing should happen to him. But notwithstanding his pretended 

 friendship and all his professions, to the sincerity of which he called 

 his God to witness, in defiance of the sacred laws of hospitality, and 

 indeed of all laws both human and divine, he barbarously ordered 

 his slaves to cut his head off. His commands were no sooner given 

 than executed : after which he sent to seize his money and effects 



