92 On the Culture of the Mulberry. 



terminal shoots should be pruned away down to the first 

 strong bud that does not stand foreright, and the front shoots 

 which were pruned in August, must also be shortened down 

 to two or three eyes. 



If trained after this method the tree will afford fruit the 

 third year ;* when the management of the foreright shoots 

 must be somewhat different. These should now be shortened 

 at the end of the month of June or beginning of July, so as to 

 leave one leaf only beyond the fruit, the terminal shoots 

 being nailed to the wall as before, and left without any 

 summer pruning ; the forerights will not advance any fur- 

 ther, as their nutriment, will go into the fruit, which, when 

 quite ripe, becomes perfectly black, very large, and highly 

 saccharine. 



The standard Mulberry receives great injury by being 

 planted on grass plats with the view of preserving the fruit 

 when it falls spontaneously. No tree perhaps receives more 

 benefit from the spade and the dunghill than the Mulberry : 

 it ought therefore to be frequently dug about the roots, and 

 occasionally assisted with manure. The ground under the 

 tree should be kept free from weeds throughout the summer, 

 particularly when the fruit is ripening, as the reflected light and 

 heat from the bare surface of the soil is thus increased ; more 

 especially if the end branches are kept pruned, so as not to 

 bower over too near to, and shade, the ground. The fruit is 

 also very fine if the tree is trained as an espalier, within the 

 reflection of a south wall or other building. If a wooden 

 trellis were constructed with the same inclination as the roof 

 of a forcing-house, fronting the south, and raised about six 

 * The trees being such, when planted, I conclude, as the nurseries afford. Sec*. 



