280 



BOOTAN. 



that we should not be gainers in time by not going through his castle, 

 but subsequently it turned out that the Deb had, with infinite consi- 

 deration, wished us to remain in order to rest ourselves after our long 

 journey. This may have been merely said to shelter the Wandipore 

 man, who had the impudence to send one evening to us saying, that 

 the Deb and Durmah were coming to Wandipore next morning, and 

 that we were to meet them there, and return the same evening to 

 Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was at last compelled 

 to write to the Deb, and the consequence was the arrangement for 

 our advance next morning. 



April ist. — The march to Punukha extended over a most barren 

 dried up country, the features presented were the same as those about 

 Phain. We proceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then 

 diverged, proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The 

 remainder of our journey extended either just above the base of 

 the hills, or along the valley : the distance was nine miles. The 

 march was an uninteresting one ; the only pretty part being the river 

 that drains the valley, and it is one of considerable size, fordable in 

 but few places ; the rapids are frequent, but the intermediate parts flow 

 gently. We were all dreadfully disappointed in the capital, the castle 

 even is by no means so imposing as that of Tongsa or Byagur ; the 

 city miserable, consisting of a few mean houses, and about as many 

 ruined ones. 



The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the 

 most barren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a 

 detour, to avoid exposure to the usual regal insolence : our plan 

 was effectual. From some distance I had espied our quarters, and 

 although our mission, is one sent by the most powerful eastern govern- 

 ment, yet we had allotted to us a residence fit only for hogs. 



It consisted of a court-yard, surrounded by walls, and what had 

 evidently been stabling ; the apartments were numerous, but exces- 

 sively small, the roof of single mats. The place swarmed with ver- 

 min. In this we determined not to stay, and so proceeded to the 

 city, (for sure there cannot be a capital without a city,) and there, 

 after some delay, procured two houses, in one of which the present 

 Tongso Pillo had lodged before his present exaltation. But imagine 

 not that it was a palace. The two houses together furnished three 

 habitable rooms. 



I imagine not that the houses were procured for us by the local 

 government. We only obtained them by Pemberton's liberality 



