50 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



We were well within the London fogs, being less than seven 

 miles from the Bank of England. In our new garden not much 

 further out we had to do the same sort of work, but the soil was 

 much better, being a medium clay of considerable depth, and 

 nothing more was necessary than to trench the ground twice over 

 in order to incorporate the top and bottom soil well together. 

 We had to drain it, and find a good outfall for the water. In 

 such a case the drains should be about six yards apart. 



I have brought this subject forward as much in the interest 

 of amateurs who own small gardens, and who do most of the 

 work themselves as a relaxation from sedentary occupations, as 

 in that of gardeners. It is quite true that some classes of soils 

 are more suitable to fruit culture than others, but my experience 

 is that some soils are condemned when neither the soil nor the 

 climate, but the culture alone is to blame. Only the other day 

 I met a person who has several hundreds of fruit trees in his 

 garden, most of them young ones, and a considerable portion are 

 showing canker on the larger branches. I examined the soil, 

 and found that it had not been broken up more than ten inches 

 deep ; ard, further, all sorts of vegetable crops were planted close 

 up to the trees. This system of culture can satisfy no one, and it 

 cannot be profitable. I fancy many good gardeners will bear me 

 out when I say that want of preparation of the soil, and sub- 

 sequent neglect of the special requirement of each class of trees, 

 is the sole cause of canker. 



Having found a cause, I would suggest the remedy. 



In the first place, it may be remarked that heavy clay soils 

 nearly always require to be drained, and a free outfall provided 

 for the water. Three feet depth of drains is sufficient, with a main 

 drain at the lowest part of the garden three feet six inches deep. 



Secondly, trenching, or at least stirring, the soil to a depth 

 of about two feet is necessary. But I would not invariably throw 

 the subsoil up to the surface, but would always stir up the bottom 

 to the depth of eight or nine inches with a fork ; and if the soil 

 could be trenched twelve months before planting all the better. 



In the third place, good healthy trees should be selected ; they 

 ought to be carefully lifted, and planted as soon afterwards as 

 possible. Care must be taken to keep the roots in a moist state 

 from the time they are lifted until they are again in the ground. 

 Spread the roots out carefully when planting them, and work the 

 soil well in amongst them. Trees on the free stocks should be 

 planted the same depth as they were before. Those on the Para- 

 dise and Quince stocks, or, in fact, any dwarfing stocks, should 

 be planted to the union of the stock and scion. It is also of 

 great advantage to the trees to have a mulching of decayed 

 manure around the roots after planting ; and if they are exposed 

 to high winds, they ought to have some artificial support until 

 they are well established. 



