Instructions for Forcing Cherries. 117 



to their rims in an open exposure, and be mulched and 

 liberally watered during the summer months. 



If the trees that are to be planted in the inside border have 

 been nursed near to the forcing-house, and in a soil so adhe- 

 sive that a considerable ball of earth can be retained at their 

 roots when removed, they may be very gently forced the en- 

 suing spring ; but if they be permitted to have two summers 

 growth before they be forced, their success will be more cer- 

 tain, as I have always found. The trees planted in pots or 

 tubs, &c. should not be forced till after being two summers 

 established, as their roots will, of necessity, be more short- 

 ened than those put into the border. I have had an abun- 

 dant crop of fine Cherries from trees which had been planted 

 only a few months before forcing, but would not recommend 

 the risking a whole crop, unless the trees have been longer 

 established. 



Where a portion of wall (especially with a southern aspect), 

 already well furnished with May Dukes, perfectly established, 

 and in a bearing state, can be spared for forcing, a temporary 

 glass case may be put up against it; the flue may be built 

 on the surface of the border, without digging, or sinking for 

 a foundation ; neither will any upright glass or front wall 

 be requisite ; the wooden plate on which the lower end of 

 the rafters are to rest may be supported by piles, sunk or 

 driven into the soil of the border, one pile under every, or 

 every alternate rafter. The space between the plate and the 

 surface of the soil should be filled by boards nailed against 

 the pdes, to exclude the. external air, for the plate must be ele- 

 vated above the level of the surface from eighteen to thirty 

 inches, or whatever height may be sufficient to let the sashes 



