192 On the Culture of Early Melons. 



are given to the hills in the course of the day, but the leaves 

 of the plants are not then wetted. As the power of the sun 

 increases, after the end of February, the waterings are 

 gradually increased ; and I also then give water about twice 

 a week, tolerably freely all over the leaves, with a rose, this 

 is usually done on fine bright mornings. 



The Melon plants, after being ridged out, soon make 

 runners ; these I stop at the third or fourth joint, which 

 causes them to throw out fresh ones, which are usually more 

 productive of fertile flowers, and on them I set my first 

 crop of fruit. I am careful to keep the plants regularly 

 thinned from weak and barren shoots, and from the oldest 

 leaves, when they are too thick. 



During the whole period of forcing, the heat under the 

 frames is well kept up by occasional renewals of the linings. 



About the middle of March, but sometimes not till the 

 end of the month, the first fruits which have set are become 

 nearly as large as pullets eggs ; these I reduce to nine in 

 in each frame, that is, three to a light, and one only to each 

 plant. After this, as the fruit will swell rapidly, fresh com- 

 post, if necessary, should be added, and attention be paid 

 to thinning the barren runners and old leaves of the plants, 

 as before directed. When the Melons have arrived at their 

 full size I leave off watering altogether, except that I give 

 a little round the edge of the bed under the frame, to keep 

 alive the roots that run on the top of the flue. 



I generally have two or three crops from the same plants. 

 The first crop ripens about the end of April ; when that is 

 full grown, before it ripens, I set my second crop, keeping 

 one fruit, as before, to each plant, and as soon as the first 



