22 BECKERT'S SEED STORE, 101 AND 103 FEDERAL ST., N. S., PITTSBURGH, PA. 



EASY TO GROW BULBS INDOORS 



The large demand for bulbs suitable for flowering indoors and the 

 constantly increasing number of requests for cultural information 

 indicate to us a wider appreciation of the flowers themselves, as well 

 as the joy of growing them, and a wider realization of the ease and 

 little cost with which they can be had in constant profusion from 

 Christmas until the opening of the outdoor season in the spring. No 

 elaborate conservatory or professional florist's skill is required to 

 grow flowers indoors. The rules for success, though important, are 

 few, and no conditions are required which cannot be obtained in 

 any home at practically no expense. 



First and foremost, it should be borne in mind that Nature has 

 established a certain program for the development of the flower from 

 the bulb. We can, under certain conditions, hasten the development, 

 greatly shortening certain stages, but we cannot change the natural 

 order of events or omit any necessary step. In all of this develop- 

 ment, the absolutely essential part is the formation of the root system. 

 Every perfect forcing bulb contains an embryonic flower as well as 

 sufficient plant-food to bring this flower to full size and perfection, 

 but before that plant-food can become of any use to the flower, it 

 must be changed in composition and carried where it is needed by 

 water. The only beneficial way in which this necessary water can 

 be obtained by the bulb is through its natural root system, and the 

 development of that root system is the most important factor in the 

 growing of perfect flowers indoors. 



We must, then, first provide the conditions required for proper 

 rootage and these are: (1) darkness, (2) low temperature, (3) enough 

 moisture, and (4) four to fourteen weeks time, depending on the 

 kind of bulb. 



Once the bulbs are well rooted, all that is needed to bring them 

 into bloom is the stimulation of light and warmth. But following 

 Nature's program we must not make the change from dark to light 

 and from cold to heat too abrupt or too great. In the natural course 

 of events, the leaves develop before the flowers, and they develop 

 best at a cooler temperature. Therefore, several days, or even a 

 couple of weeks, should elapse between the time the bulbs are first 

 taken out of the cold and dark and brought into full warmth and 

 sunlight, this time being sufficient to nearly complete leaf-growth. 

 Even after that, too much heat is to be avoided, since a moderate, 

 even temperature will produce finer, larger flowers that will last longer 

 than those grown in excessive warmth. 



Growing Bulbs in Soil — Receptacles. 

 All bulbs grow best in a fine, rather light and 

 fairly rich soil. Fine, rich garden loam with a 

 little sand makes an ideal medium in which to 

 grow bulbs. If the proper kind of soil is not 

 readily available, use Holland Bulb Fiber, for 

 which see page 19. Almost any kind of recep- 

 tacle that allows for necessary drainage may be 

 Cross-section of bulb usec j_ The flower-pots of the style known as 

 rulb^llntfd K azalea- or bulb-pots (see page 32/ are designed 

 Note piece of pottery especially tor the larger bulbs, such as 1 ulips, 

 over hole in bottom for Hyacinths, and Daffodils. The smaller bulbs, 

 drainage. such as Crocuses and Freesias, may be grown 



in low fern-pans. Before filling with soil or fiber, soak the pots in 

 water for several hours to fill the pores, as they will otherwise absorb 

 an amazing amount of moisture from the soil. This soaking is par- 

 ticularly important with Hyacinths, and in growing them it is advis- 

 able to always to use old pots if obtainable. 



Planting the Bulbs and 

 Storing. The number of 

 bulbs to plant in pots of a 

 certain size is given in the 

 instructions under each 

 class. When ready to plant, 

 place bits of crock over the 

 holes in the bottom of the 

 pots to permit drainage and 

 fill the pots with soil to 

 within about 1Yi inches 

 from the top. Set the bulbs 

 on top of this layer of soil 

 and then fill in so that just 

 the tip of the bulb is left 

 uncovered. If the soil be 

 dry, water enough to make 

 it moist all the way through, 

 but not wet, and then the 

 bulbs are ready to put away 

 to root. For the rooting 

 period, the pots may be 

 stored any place where the 

 requisite conditions of dark 

 and cold obtain. Freezing 

 does no harm, so it is often most convenient to store them out- 

 doors, for which purpose a coldframe may be used, or a trench dug 

 about a foot deep. Set the pots in the bottom of the trench or 

 coldframe, filling in around them with straw, leaves, or loose earth 

 and covering with earth or coal-ashes to a depth of several inches. 

 To make the removal of the pots easy, this covering must be pro- 

 tected by a thick mulch of leaves or manure or by boards to pre- 

 vent its freezing solid. 



If it is not convenient to store the 

 pots outdoors, they may be kept in 

 the cellar or attic, if these places are 

 cold enough, in covered boxes, setting 

 the pots on a layer of soil in the bot- 

 tom. Such boxes will require watering 

 every few days, and it is best not to 

 water the pots themselves but to fill 

 the saucers in which they stand, as 

 this will allow the bulbs to take up no 

 more water than they require. 



Blooming. For Hyacinths, Single 

 Early Tulips, and forcing Daffodils 

 (such as Von Sion, Golden Spur, Em- 

 peror, etc.), ten weeks in the cold and 



Trench for storing potted bulbs outdoors 



^F'tll saucer- u/ith 

 water- as often as 

 needed 



1 



Cross-section of box for storing 

 potted bulbs in attic or cellar. 

 Cover with boards. 



