The Making and Care of an Old-fashioned Hardy Border — Continued. 



Winter Care. — About the middle of November or later, when all 

 the soft growth has been killed by the frost and the plants are thor- 

 oughly ripened, the old hard-wooded stems should be removed and 

 burned up. It will then be found beneficial to cover the plants with 

 a top-dressing of loose stable litter, or, if this is not to be had, a 

 covering of leaves — Nature's protection. This covering is best ap- 

 plied when the ground is in a dry condition and should not be over- 

 done ; two or three inches spread over loosely being all that is required. 

 A deeper covering would incite the plants into premature growth in 

 early spring with a liability of damage by late frosts ; don't be in a 

 hurry to cover the plants, a little frost will do them good. As the 

 extreme cold weather begins to disappear this covering should be re- 

 moved by degrees, allowing any young growths which the plants may 

 have made to gradually harden off. This process usually occupies 

 only a few days, after which the plants may be fully exposed to the 

 sunshine, and the litter or covering which has protected them during the 

 winter may be raked up and removed. 



Replanting. — It is all nonsense to suppose that Hardy Perennials 

 once planted require no attention for several years. The truth is, if 

 we wish them to give entire satisfaction we must each spring see that 

 each variety is treated in the best manner to ensure its fullest develop- 

 ment during the next flowering season. Many ideasa re advanced on 

 the question of how often they ought to be divided and transplanted, 

 but no positive rule can be applied. Some sorts will take two or three 

 years or even longer to get established and develop their fullest beauty 

 after being transplanted, and usually the longer they are allowed to 

 grow without disturbance the better results will be accomplished, 

 while others should be transplanted or reset each season. 



Most hardy plants which flower during the spring or early sum- 

 mer months, such as Anthericum, Pseonies, Doronicum, Dielytras, 

 etc., produce their new growth from the crown of close, compact roots, 

 and are better if left undivided and undisturbed for several years, the 

 only care necessary for these being a liberal covering with fresh soil 

 or compost early in spring. The late summer and autumn blooming 

 species are usually of a more vigorous growth. Such sorts as Helian- 

 thus, Rudbeckias, Asters, Boltonias, Physostegias, etc., on which the original crowns die out each season and many new growths 

 are made, are far better if replanted each season, selecting from three to five of the strongest growths, which, after the ground 

 has been redug and enriched, may be reset in the same position or replanted to another section of the garden. Treated in this 

 manner, they will not only produce flowers of larger size and finer colors, but will keep the stronger and more rampant growing 

 varieties from crowding out their equally interesting but less vigorous neighbors. 



Many not thoroughly familiar with this class of plants have an idea that nothing but a large field-grown clump will give satis- 

 factory returns the first season. This, as experience has taught us, is in most instances a mistake. A vigorous plant of proper size 

 will, in nearly every case, give quicker and better returns than the best so-called "field clumps." The majority of the stock 

 offered in this catalogue is pot-grown. This does not mean that the plants have been altogether pot-grown, but that they have 

 been field-grown and dug and potted up during the fall months, and such stock can be planted, even late in the spring, with prac- 

 tically no loss, which, in the case of clumps, is often quite serious. The following letter from the well-known and successful 

 amateur, W. C. Egan, endorses our views on this, matter: — 



Egandale, Ills., April 9, 1907. 



Gentlemen — Your shipment of perennials arrived safely to-day in most excellent order. It certainly is a pleasure, as well as a 

 profit, to receive plants from you. Your system of growing these in pots allows shipment without disturbing the roots, thus insur- 

 ing uninterrupted growth and no loss in planting. 



Respectfully yours, 



W. C. Egan. 



The list of Hardy Perennial plants which we offer in our garden book is admitted to be the most complete and up-to-date 

 collection in the country, and we are continually adding all the new, rare and desirable sorts, both of home and foreign intro- 

 duction, to our list. 



While we are not in the landscape business and cannot undertake the preparation of plans for planting 

 or laying out of grounds, we offer for customers who are not acquainted with the different sorts the following " Introduc- 

 tion Collections, ' ' all in good, strong roots, which when once planted will, with little care, keep the garden gay with flowers from 

 the time frost leaves the ground until late in autumn. 



Dreer's " Introduction " Collection of Hardy Perennial Plants. 



12 distinct species, our selection $1.50 I 50 distinct species and varieties, our selection $5.00 



25 " " " " 2.75 I 100 " " " " " " ■ 9.00 



Hardy Perennials Suitable for Growing in Shady Positions. 



Hemerocallis, Funkias, etc., on Margin of Pond. 



We are frequently asked to recommend 

 suited for this purpose, many of them will 

 found under their respective heads. 

 Aconitum (Monkshood). 

 Actaea spicata (Baneberry). 

 Ajuga (Bugle). 

 Amsonia. 

 Anemone Pennsylvaniea ( Windflower). 



" Pulsatilla (Pasque Flower). 



" Sylvestris ( Wind/lower). 



Caltha (Martin Marigold). 

 Carex (Sedge). 

 CliamivliriiiTiio 



Convallaria (Lily of the Valley). 

 Dielytra (Bleeding Heart). 

 Epimedium (Barren-wort). 



a list of Perennials that will grow in the shade, and while the sorts noted below are 

 do equally well in a sunny position. Descriptions, prices and cultural notes will be 



Ferns. 



Funkia (Plantain Lily). 

 Helleborus (Christmas Rose). 

 Hemerocallis (Lay Lily). 

 Hepatica (Liver Leaf). 

 Orobus (Bitter Vetch). 

 Pachysandra. 

 Podophyllum (May Apple). 

 Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal). 

 Pulmonaria (Lungwort). 

 Ranunculus repens fl. pi. (Buttercup). 

 Rodgersia. 



Saxifraga (Megaseas). 

 Smilacina (False Solomon's Seal). 

 Spigelia (Carolina or Lndian Pink). 

 Spiraea (Meadow Stoeet). 

 Stenanthium (Mountain Feather Fleece) 

 Thalictrum (Meadow Rue). 

 Tradescantea (Spider-wort). 

 Tricyrtis (Japanese Toad Lily). 

 Trillium (Wood Lily or Wake Robin). 

 Trollius (Globe Flower). 

 Vinca (Periwinkle or Trailing Myrtle). 

 Violet (Hardy Russian). 



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