Water Lily Department. 



View op one of our Ponds at Riverton showing Victorias and Tender Nymph/eas. 



ALL water, whether it be a lake, stream, pond or even a small pool, seems to hold a certain charm for everyone, and, when this 

 water is inhabited and beautified by aquatic plants and fish, it becomes fascinating. More especially is this the case when the 

 plants are gorgeous tender Nymphseas and Nelumbiums, or the chaste and artistic hardy Water Lilies, and when we consider 

 the ease with which these plants can be grown, there is no reason why every natural lake, pond and stream having the proper con- 

 ditions, which are sunshine, still, warm water, and plenty of rich soil, should not be so beautified. Where stagnant pools exist, it 

 becomes a hygienic necessity to stock same with plants and fish, for, as in the house aquarium, when properly balanced with plant and 

 animal life, the water becomes, and will remain, pure and sweet, and in place of a mosquito and malaria-breeding pool we have a 

 healthful and delightful aquatic garden. Aquatics given the same or similar conditions as those under which our native Water Lilies 

 are found will grow luxuriantly and flower profusely the entire season, and will give more pleasure for the time and care expended in 

 their cultivation than any other plants of which we know. The amount of flowers produced and space covered by a single specimen 

 Nymphaea, even the rarer and more expensive varieties, become inexpensive, compared to the cost of the most ordinary bedding plants. 



HOW TO GROW WATER LILIES. "S^r 



Soil and Location. The best soil for growing all aquatics 

 is the rotted vegetable matter from ponds or swamps, mixed with 

 one-third well-rotted manure, and the best substitute for same is 

 good, heavy loam enriched with one-third well-decayed cow 

 manure. All Nymphasas and other flowering aquatics should be 

 planted so that they will be exposed to full sunlight. 



Size and Construction of Ponds, etc. In constructing 

 artificial ponds where the soil is not sufficiently retentive to hold 

 water a good method is to smooth and pound firmly the bottom 

 and sides of the excavation, then cover the whole with a layer of 

 six inches of puddled clay, pounding it well with wooden mauls 

 so as to bring it into one solid mass. Cover the sides with rough 

 stones or put on a thin layer of concrete. This will prevent the 

 sides from washing. When ponds are built of cement or concrete 

 below the level of the ground, the top of wall should be built in 

 a wedge shape and plastered smooth with cement, both inside 

 and out. This will prevent, to a great extent, the frost heaving 

 it during the winter months. A total depth of two feet is suf- 

 ficient; one foot for soil and one foot for water, with an overflow 

 so constructed that the pond can be entirely drained or the water 

 held at any level desired. In constructing ponds, except when 

 in connection with formal gardens and buildings, they should be 

 of as natural an outline as possible, with here and there a clump 

 of marsh-loving plants — a piece or two of rough rock-work, 

 planted with rock plants — a clump of hardy Bamboo; hardy 

 ornamental grasses; hardy herbaceous plants and specimen flower- 

 ing shrubs, but always leaving open spaces from where the love- 

 liest of all, the Water Lilies, can be seen and admired. 



For those who have not the advantage of natural ponds or 

 large artificial basins, there are many varieties which can be 

 grown successfully in half-barrels or any water-tight receptacle 

 having a diameter of two feet or more, but the greater the sur- 

 face space the better will be the results. 



Many of the Nymphseas and other aquatics, and all of the 

 Nelumbiums can be successfully grown in half-barrels. To do 

 this, fill the tubs half-full with aquatic soil, top-dressed with two 

 inches of sand, allowing about six inches for water. Sink the 

 tubs in the ground to within three inches of the top. When more 

 than one tub is used a very ornamental effect can be produced by 

 leaving a space between the tubs to be used as a miniature rock 

 garden. 



The following varieties will be found suitable for tub culture: 

 Nymphseas, Aurora, Lucida, Marliacea chromatella, Odorata 

 minor, Pygmsea, Pygmsea helvola, Zanzibariensis azurea and rosea, 

 Acorus japonicus variegatus, Eichhornia crassipes major, Jussiae, 

 longifolia, Limnanthemum indicum, Limnocharis Humboldti, 

 Sagittaria Montevidiensis, Scirpus tabernasmontana zebrina. 



Depth and Supply of Water. This may vary from a few 

 inches to four feet, but all of the hardy Nymphseas will give 

 better results if only covered by 12 inches of water during the 

 summer months. For growing in water two feet or more deep, 

 only the strong growing varieties of Nymphseas should be chosen. 

 Tender Nymphseas and Nelumbiums should not have more than 

 twelve inches of water above the crowns. 



As all Water Lilies, and more especially the tender varieties, 

 prefer still, warm water, it is a mistake to have any fountain or 

 other continuous inflow of water in connection with artificial 

 ponds or tanks, and in natural ponds, when such are fed with a 

 large inflow of cold spring water, Lilies will not be a success. 

 For artificial ponds and tanks it is best only to give enough fresh 

 water to replace what is lost by evaporation, etc., and the best 

 method of doing so is to give the ponds a good syringing from a 

 hose late in the afternoon or early in the evening. The syringing, 

 besides giving the necessary amount of fresh water, will be very 

 beneficial to the plants, as it will keep in check green and black 

 fly and keep the leaves free from dust. 



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