By Jean Baptiste Van Mons. 319 



on it in a niche made in the stock, similar to what would be 

 formed by taking an eye for budding from it in the manner 

 above described, and into which it is fitted exactly with a 

 slight pressure. It is recommended to make the cut for the 

 niche where there is already a bud on the stock ; when placed, 

 the bud is then bound with bass and covered with mastic. 



For budding in June, I deprive the young shoots, of the 

 plants I desire to cultivate, of their leaves, and fifteen days 

 afterwards the eyes at the axils of the leaves are sufficiently 

 swelled to allow of their being taken off, and inserted as buds. 

 The shoots from these buds often bear even in the same year 

 many flowers. 



In August and September, we insert our buds upon stocks 

 that have not been pruned; they are placed upon the old 

 wood, not only because we bud low, but because this suc- 

 ceeds best. 



Whatever be the period at which budding is done, if the 

 plant be well pruned on all its branches the bud does not 

 fail to push. 



The scion of a Rose tree is seldom too dry to take, when 

 the bud is inserted with a thin bit of wood behind its eye. 

 I have thus budded successfully from scions that had remained 

 in a drawer for ten days. When cuttings for buds are to travel, 

 I pack them in long grass, and surround them with straw 

 disposed longitudinally. 



We prefer to graft and bud our Roses not more than six 

 inches above ground, firstly, in order that the whole head of 

 the bush may be exposed to the eye of the observer, and, 

 secondly, because the union is more certain, and the plant 

 keeps the earth about it moist by its own shadow. Besides, 



