586 



Apple Culture. 



[JAN., 



various points. It is quite certain that the aim of the indus- 

 trious grower will be to secure good crops, and in order to 

 achieve that end he must be master of the trees, and not the 

 trees master of him — as is too often the case. 



Assuming that the trees were planted in autumn, they should 

 be pruned the following February. The method of procedure 

 may be as follows : — First thin out the weak, twiggy growths 

 other than fruiting spurs (if any). Next shorten back the leaders, 

 z>, the main growths. The weak leaders may be cut back to a 

 point leaving about 4 in. of last year's growth, and the stronger 

 growths at lengths varying according to their strength up to 

 8 in., varying the length of the leaders left, after shortening 

 back, according to their strength of growth. If the trees are 

 erect growers, they should be pruned to wood buds, pointing 

 outwards (wood buds are pointed and fruit buds are larger 

 and rounder). If they are of a drooping habit they should 

 be pruned to wood buds pointing upwards. About the latter 

 end of July the young trees should have their lateral growths 

 cut back, leaving them about 2 in. long. Any that are 

 wanted as leaders to grow in large openings, to make the 

 trees a good, serviceable shape, may be left. Those laterals 

 that were cut back in July should be cut back again about 

 the second week in September, making the September cut 

 behind, or nearer to the leader, than the July cut. The July 

 pruning will probably cause fruit buds to form, but, if not, the 

 September pruning will. It is very important that this last 

 summer pruning should be done at the right time. If done 

 too early, another set of sub-laterals will develop ; and if done 

 too late, when the leaves have fallen and the trees are void 

 of sap, no good will result from the work, because there will 

 be no sap for the formation of the desired fruit buds. 



The following February the leaders should be shortened back 

 again. If they have developed a good supply of laterals the 

 previous summer they should not be cut back so close as at 

 the first shortening ; but if they have not developed laterals 

 freely, if their back buds are blind and dormant, they must 

 be cut back harder than they were the first year. The second 

 summer pruning should be the same as for the first season. The 

 winter and summer pruning for the third year should be the 



