GLIMPSES OF KOREA AND CHINA 



927 



pounded the wet garments placed on 

 smooth stones. On one of these occa- 

 sions, in the same stream a short dis- 

 tance from this johy crowd, were others 

 rinsing and trimming cabbages and other 

 vegetables, preparing them for market. 

 On the same sewer, a little farther on, 

 was a poultry market, with numbers of 

 crates of fowls, close to the water. We 

 wondered how clothes could be made so 

 white under such conditions. 



The religious uplift of Korea has been 

 almost phenomenal. Based on the latest 

 reports of the results of missionary ef- 

 forts, comparatively speaking, it leads 

 the world. If the Christian workers 

 whom it was our good fortune to meet 

 in this field are indicative of the devo- 

 tion and aggressiveness of the others, 

 and if they are aided in the future by the 

 more liberal support of Christians, which 

 the past success of the work warrants, 

 it seems reasonable to expect the won- 

 derful results begun will continue beyond 

 all precedence. 



At the service which we attended in 

 the Methodist Episcopal Church the edi- 

 fice was filled to the doors. On one side 

 of the center aisle sat the men in white, 

 all wearing the peculiar little hats ; the 

 opposite side was occupied by women with 

 heads uncovered, many of them gowned 

 in difTerent shades of green, with red 

 waists or jackets. The space in front 

 and at each side of the preacher, extend- 

 ing about ten feet, was filled with chil- 

 dren, sitting on the floor. During the 

 prayers the women turned in their seats 

 and knelt. 



In this church the curtain, which for 

 years hung in the center aisle to shield 

 the women from the scrutiny of the men, 

 had been removed at their suggestion 

 two years before. The pastor, a native, 

 distantly related to the royal family, is 

 said to be a very talented and forceful 

 preacher. 



A visit to the imperial palace, although 

 unoccupied, was interesting. The build- 

 ings and grounds are extensive ; a hand- 

 some pagoda standing on a small island 

 is surrounded by a lotus pond, a wealth 

 of trees adding to the beauty of the place. 



During the reign of the old emperor, 

 his fear of assassination was so great 

 that it is said 300 bed-rooms in the palace 

 were kept constantly in readiness for 

 him, no one knowing which one he would 

 occupy on any night. 



One of the most enjoyable trips from 

 Seoul is by rickshaw past the Peking or 

 Independent Gate through a picturesque 

 road winding among the mountains. The 

 construction of the great wall of Korea 

 at this point appears a marvel of engineer- 

 ing skill, so seemingly inaccessible is this 

 mountain fastness. Proceeding about two 

 miles, we pass the water-gate, where the 

 wall crosses the river and where in time 

 of attack the iron gates in these great 

 arches were let down to protect the city. 

 The view of this crossing is one of the 

 finest in Korea. 



Another ride of three miles brings us 

 to the White Buddha. In the solitude of 

 this wilderness, far from the highway, 

 close beside a clear mountain stream, 

 stands a great granite boulder, on the 

 face of which, carved in relief, is the 

 sitting figure of Buddha. Above is a 

 curved roof of the pagoda style, with 

 elaborately carved cornice decorated in 

 high colors. Every three years the out- 

 lines of the idol are given a coat of white 

 paint, with a delicate moustache, ears, 

 etc., in red to give it character. In front 

 of the idol was a little shrine on which 

 stood a lantern. 



Enterprising shop-keepers in Seoul 

 evinced their desire for English trade by 

 signs, some of which were full of detail : 

 ''Handkerchief special occupation," 

 "Copper, iron, lead and repaired store," 

 "Broker for several kinds of manure," 

 "Wild silk," "Cow meat," "Firm and 

 without fade at bedyed for many colors," 

 are self-explanatory. 



Over a drugstore was, "Every medi- 

 cine is required for small or wholesale," 

 followed by the assurance that "all kinds 

 of sickness must be examined or cured," 

 while hanging in the window of a vacant 

 building was the announcement, "To sell 

 apply within next door." 



The raincoat used by the Korean peas- 

 ant and farmer is in shape a long cloak 



