244 



CULINARY OR KITCHEN GARDEN. 



constitutes what is called " Funghi di Genoa," 

 and is preserved by being simply cut into four 

 pieces, and dried in the air for a few days, when 

 it is strung up and kept for use. It is not a 

 common species in Britain. 



Agaricus procerus (Scop.), one of the most de- 

 licate of all the mushroom tribe. It is very 

 common in England, and held in high esteem in 

 France and Italy. It is an autumnal species, and 

 makes excellent ketchup. 



Agaricus exquisitus (Badham), A. Georgii 

 (Withering), often attaining the weight of 5 or 6 

 lb. Considered less delicate than A. campestris 

 in Britain, but looked upon in Hungary as a 

 special gift from the saint whose name it bears. 

 Persoon describes it as superior to A. campestris 

 in smell, taste, and digestibility, on which ac- 

 count, he says, it is generally preferred in France. 

 It is found abundantly in many places, generally 

 growing in rings, and reappearing for many suc- 

 cessive years on the same spot ; and although 

 sometimes found in old pastures, is in general to 

 be met with in thickets under trees. 



Agaricus deliciosus. — Found during Septem- 

 ber and October growing under Scotch fir-trees 

 and other pines ; of medium size, yellowish, 

 zoned with deep orange on top, somewhat re- 

 sembling A. torminosus, a deleterious species, but 

 readily distinguished from it, as its juice is, when 

 fresh cut, quite red, afterwards turning green, 

 while that of the latter is white and unchange- 

 able. Sir James Edward Smith, in his " Tour," 

 says, {t The market of Marseilles exhibited a pro- 

 digious quantity of A. deliciosus, which really de- 

 serves its name, being the most delicious mush- 

 room known." And Mr Sowerby is equally high 

 in its praise, remarking, " I had one dressed ; it 

 was very luscious eating, full of rich gravy, with 

 a little of the flavour of mussels." 



Agaricus personatus. — One of our most com- 

 mon British mushrooms, appearing in October 

 in circles, and sometimes growing in clusters 

 amongst old pasture-grass. It has found its way 

 into Covent Garden market under the name of 

 Blewitts or Blue Hats. 



Agaricus oreades (Bolt). — This is the well- 

 known Champignon, abounding in most old pas- 

 tures, appearing in succession for several months, 

 generally growing in circles, and greatly abound- 

 ing after rain has succeeded dry warm weather, 

 that being the most favourable condition for the 

 growth and extension of the spawn, and the for- 

 mer the best condition for the production of the 

 perfect mushroom. Dr Badham thus speaks of 

 this species : " Independent of the excellent 

 flavour of this little mushroom, which is as good 

 as that of most funguses, two circumstances give 

 it an additional value in a domestic point of 

 view — viz. the facility with which it is dried, and 

 its very extensive dissemination. When dried, 

 (two or three days' exposure to the air is generally 

 sufficient to effect this), the A. oreades may be 

 kept for years without losing any of its aroma or 

 goodness, which, on the contrary, becomes im- 

 proved by the process, so as in fact to impart 

 more flavour to the dish than would have been 

 imparted by the fresh fungus ; though it is not 

 to be denied that the flesh then becomes coria- 

 ceous, and less easy of digestion." 



Agaricus nebularis, reappearing for years in 

 the same spot, generally in October, considered 

 lighter of digestion than any other sort. 



Agaricus comatus and A. atrimentarius are 

 employed for making ketchup, but should both 

 be used in a young state. The former is found 

 abundantly growing on stumps of trees, appear- 

 ing both in spring and autumn ; while the latter 

 is found amongst grass in meadows and pastures, 

 from spring till late in autumn. 



Agaricus virescens (Schoeff.),^. ruber (Schoeff.), 

 zndA.heterophyUus (Fries.), are all of the edible 

 section. The former, indeed, has been recom- 

 mended for cultivating by M. Thore. It is not 

 very abundant in Britain. Vittadini describes 

 it as excellent, and much used by the peasants 

 about Milan, and asserts also that it is eaten in 

 England. According to Roques, it is much used 

 in France, both in a fresh and dried state. A. 

 ruber appears in great abundance in many places 

 from July till late in autumn, and is both deli- 

 cate and easy of digestion. The latter is consi- 

 dered by Vittadini, Roques, and Dr Badham as 

 not surpassed in flavour by any other of the 

 mushroom tribe. It is found during the sum- 

 mer months, and often in abundance, under elm 

 trees in dense woods. 



Agaricus rubescens (Persoon). — Found during 

 summer and autumn in woods, particularly in 

 those of oak and chestnut. It is one of the most 

 delicate as well as one of the most common of 

 our British species, and eminently deserving the 

 attention of collectors as well as of cultivators. 



Agaricus orcella (Bull). — Appearing occasion- 

 ally during summer, but far more usually during 

 autumn, amongst grass, in woods and pastures, 

 growing either solitary or in groups, and some- 

 times in circles, frequently succeeding a crop of 

 A. oreades and A. prunulus : a most delicate and 

 safe species. 



Agaricus virgineus (Wullf). — Found abun- 

 dantly in many places ; in old pastures during 

 autumn ; often in company with puff-ball, Lyco- 

 perdonplumbeum : indeed they are often gathered 

 and eaten together. 



Agaricus piperatus (Scop). — Found in woods, 

 during July and August, but not abundant ; is 

 very extensively used on the Continent, both in 

 its fresh and dried state ; it is also preserved, 

 for winter use, in a pickle of salt and vinegar. 



Agaricus fusipes (Bull). — An excellent fungus, 

 found in great abundance at the roots of old oak 

 trees, particularly after rain, throughout both 

 summer and autumn. 



Boletus edulis (Bull). — A prejudice exists in 

 Britain generally against the whole of this genus ; 

 nevertheless we have the testimony of ages that 

 the ancient Romans were not only acquainted 

 with this very delicious species, but also that they 

 prized it exceedingly. Two species of boletus 

 are eaten, and highly approved of, on the Con- 

 tinent, namely, B. edulus and scaber. The genus 

 is extensively found in Britain, principally dur- 

 ing autumn, but also occasionally during spring 

 and summer, chiefly in woods of oaks, pines, and 

 chestnuts. Of its merits as an esculent Mr Ber- 

 keley thus speaks : " Though much neglected 

 in this country, it appears to be a most valuable 

 article of food ; it resembles much in taste the 



