342 



HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



explained by Dr Lindley, in " Theory of Hort." 

 p. 223 : " By these means we gain the import- 

 ant end of bringing in close contact a consider- 

 able surface of organising matter. The organi- 

 sation of wood takes place on its exterior, and 

 that of the bark on its interior surface, and 

 these are the parts which are applied to each 

 other in the operation of budding ; in addition 

 to which the stronger bud finds itself in its new 

 position as freely in communication with aliment- 

 ary matter, or more so, than on its parent branch. 

 A union takes place of the cellular faces, or 

 horizontal system of the stock and bark of the 

 bud ; while the latter, as soon as it begins to 

 grow, sends down the woody matter or vertical 

 system through the cellular substance. In con- 

 sequence of the horizontal incision, the return- 

 ing sap of the scion is arrested in its course, and 

 accumulates just a little above the new bud, to 

 which it is gradually supplied as it is required. 

 Sometimes the whole of the wood of the bud 

 below the bark is allowed to remain; and in 

 that case contact between the organising sur- 

 faces of the stock and scion does not take place, 

 and the union of the two is much less certain. 

 As it is, however, usually practised with tender 

 shoots before the wood is consolidated, the con- 

 tact spoken of is of less moment. In all cases, 

 a portion of the wood of the bud must be left 

 adhering to it, or the bud will perish ; because 

 its most essential part is the young woody mat- 

 ter in its centre, and not the external surface, 

 which is a mere coating of bark." This shows 

 the necessity, in carefully removing the woody 

 part of the bud, of preserving the root, as it 

 were, of the bud itself, as has been already said. 



The Americans do not extract the wood from 

 the bud, but leave it in as cut from the shoot, 

 and this may possibly suit their hot, dry cli- 

 mate ; but from experiments made by Mr Saul 

 of Bristol, who has practised both methods in 

 the extensive nurseries at Durdum Downs, his 

 conclusions are in favour of the English mode — 

 namely, of extracting the wood from the bud. 

 Sometimes, he says, there may be an advantage 

 in putting in the wood — namely, when the shoot 

 has become firm, and the wood and bark will 

 not freely separate ; then, if inserted in a free- 

 growing stock, it will in all probability take. 

 The evidence of both writers and practitioners 

 in both countries is so divided upon this sub- 

 ject, that we shall here transcribe the American 

 practice, as given by Mr Downing, one of their 

 best authorities, in his useful work, " Fruits 

 and Fruit Trees of America." 



American shield-budding. — "Having your 

 stock of buds ready, choose a smooth portion of 

 the stock. When the latter is small, let it be 

 near the ground, and, if equally convenient, 

 select also the north side of the stock, as least 

 exposed to the sun. Make an upright incision 

 in the bark from an inch to an inch and a half 

 long, and at the top of this make a cross cut, so 

 that the whole shall form a T ; from the stick 

 of your buds (your knife being very sharp) cut 

 a thin smooth slice of wood and bark containing 

 a bud ; with the ivory heft of your budding- 

 knife now raise the bark on each side of the 

 incision just wide enough to admit easily the 



prepared bud. Taking hold of the foot-stalk of 

 the leaf, insert the bud under the bark, pushing 

 it gently down to the bottom of the incision. 

 If the upper portion of the bud projects above 

 the horizontal part of the T, cut it smoothly 

 off now, so that it may completely fit. A ban- 

 dage of soft matting is now tied pretty firmly 

 over the whole wound, commencing at the bot- 

 tom, and leaving the bud and the foot-stalk of 

 the leaf only exposed to the light and air." Mr 

 Downing continues : " The American variety is 

 found greatly preferable to the European mode, 

 at least for this climate. Many sorts of fruit 

 trees, especially plums and cherries, nearly ma- 

 ture their growth, and require to be budded in 

 the hottest part of our summer. In the old 

 method, the bud having only a shield of bark, 

 with but a particle of wood in the heart of the 

 bud, is much more liable to be destroyed by 

 heat or dryness than when the slice of wood is 

 left behind, in the American way. Taking out 

 this wood is always an operation requiring some 

 dexterity and practice, as few buds grow when 

 their eye or heart wood is damaged. The Ame- 

 rican method, therefore, requires less skill, can 

 be done earlier in the season with younger wood, 

 is performed in much less time, and is uniformly 

 more successful. It has been very fairly tested 

 upon hundreds of thousands of fruit trees for 

 the last twenty years ; and although practised 

 English budders coming here are at first greatly 

 prejudiced against it, as being in direct opposi- 

 tion to one of the most essential features in the 

 old mode, yet a fair trial has never failed to 

 convince them of the superiority of the new." 



Saul's new method of shield-budding. — " In 

 budding," says this cultivator, " the top bud on 

 the shoot should be commenced with, cutting 

 from about an eighth of an inch below the bud 

 or eye, to from half an inch to an inch above it, 

 in order that there may be a sufficiency of bark 

 to hold with the fingers without rubbing the 

 portion which is to be inserted ; take out the 

 wood as already recommended ; next make an 

 incision in the shoot of the stock close to the 

 main stem, and about half an inch long — this is 

 long enough; cut across at top, raise the bark 

 with the end of the budding-knife without 

 bruising it, and insert the bud. It is now to be 

 tied with a little worsted or cotton. One tie 

 below the eye and two above will be ample, as 

 its entire length will not be more than half an 

 inch, and a quarter of that below the eye. The 

 most inexperienced amateur need not give 

 more than two rounds below the eye and three 

 above ; but the practical workman will find the 

 number I have mentioned sufficient." 



Shield-budding reversed, fig. 117, is performed 

 by having the transverse cut at the bottom of 

 the perpendicular slit instead of at its top, and 

 of course the shield is reversed in position. 

 This mode is preferred by those who think that 

 the sap rises in the bax-k equally with the wood ; 

 but as this opinion is not fully entertained, the 

 process is seldom used in this country, although 

 very generally in the south of Europe, particu- 

 larly in the propagation of orange-trees. It is 

 admitted to be suitable for trees having gummy 

 sap. For the same purpose budding with the 



