PLANTING. 



359 



entering new soil, the nutritious properties of 

 which are unexhausted." — Lindley's Introduction 

 to Botany, vol. ii. p. 180. 



In former times, fruit-tree borders were made 

 as deep and as rich as the means within the 

 reach of the maker could accomplish, just on 

 the very principles best fitted for the growth of 

 timber, and perfectly in accordance with Mr 

 Withers' views, and, consequently, sterility in 

 the trees (if fruit-bearing ones) was the conse- 

 quence. From this very cause also proceed late 

 and immature growths, and that in a climate 

 where every ray of heat from the sun is of so 

 much importance. Modern practitioners, sen- 

 sible of these errors, have adopted a different 

 and more rational course in the formation of 

 shallow borders, and those elevated above the 

 general surface, or placed at the most favourable 

 angle of inclination, so as to expose the roots to 

 the influence of the solar rays. This elevates 

 the temperature of the soil so as to bring it in 

 advance of the atmosphere ; or, in other words, 

 renders it so much warmer that the roots be- 

 come excited before the branches. The first 

 effects of this is a healthy and moderate growth, 

 and early maturity of the wood in fruit trees. 

 The same rule should be followed in planting 

 standard fruit-trees, because the same results 

 are wished to be attained. In the case, however, 

 of trees planted with a view to obtain the greatest 

 bulk of timber within the shortest period of 

 time, as well as of those planted for ornament, 

 the case is widely different: for them the ground 

 cannot be trenched or prepared too deep ; and 

 the same holds good in planting shrubberies. 

 Single specimens, on the lawns or in the park, 

 require equal care, the pits for which should 

 not be less than three times the diameter of the 

 ball, or of the extent of the roots. Many tender 

 shrubs and trees should be planted on slightly 

 raised mounds, so that their roots may be within 

 the reach of solar influence, to assist in exciting 

 them to earlier summer growth, and, conse- 

 quently, enabling them to mature their wood 

 more completely early in autumn, and hence 

 escape the chance of being killed by frost during 

 winter. 



Preparing the ground preparatory to planting 

 fruit trees is a subject of very great importance, 

 whether the operation extends to the planting 

 a new garden, or embraces only the making up 

 deficiencies in one already existing. On the 

 formation of fruit-tree borders we have expressed 

 our own views as well as those of others, vol. i. 

 pp. 27-32. The principles there laid down we 

 consider quite sufficient to meet the generality 

 of cases. These principles are — a dry bottom, 

 proper breadth and depth, a congenial soil, and 

 leaving the surface over the roots uncropped 

 with flowers or vegetables. These identical prin- 

 ciples apply also to orchard trees, or such as are 

 grown without the protective shelter of walls, 

 and in a modified degree also to individual trees 

 planted to make good deficiencies, from whatever 

 cause they may arise. In connection with the 

 latter case we may here briefly remark, that the 

 soil, for a very considerable distance around 

 where a tree has been removed from, has be- 

 come almost completely exhausted of those 



elements necessary for entering into the consti- 

 tution of its successor ; and it may contain the 

 seeds of disease, and abundance of the eggs of 

 insects that have played their part in hastening 

 the decay of the former. Surely we cannot be 

 blind to the necessity of removing the whole, or 

 a considerable part at the least, and supplying 

 its place with fresh soil suitable to its kind. All 

 plants have a strong affinity for new soil, and 

 fruit trees in an especial degree. The soil of a 

 long- cultivated garden, be it ever so good for 

 the purposes of ordinary cropping, is very 

 unfit for the sustenance of fruit trees, and this 

 the more so according as it abounds in humus. 

 Turfy loam from a field or common which has 

 been long in a state of pasturage, and on which 

 no trees of any kind have grown, is of all the 

 most proper, and the fresher from the field it 

 can be applied the better, and also the nearer it 

 is taken from the surface, carrying in with it any 

 fibrous vegetable matter that may be growing 

 upon it. In this there is, however, some dis- 

 crimination required, light friable loam being 

 most suitable for the peach, strong clayey loam 

 for the pear, plum, and cherry ; while the apple, 

 fig, and apricot will be quite at home in a soil 

 intermediate between these. Where fruit-tree 

 planting is to be carried on upon an extensive 

 scale, the preparation of the ground should be 

 carried on for at least during two or three 

 months previous to planting, so that the ground 

 may be completely drained, trenched, and ex- 

 posed to the action of the weather. Where 

 blanks only are to be filled up, and the trees to 

 be removed are only recently cleared of their 

 fruit, there is less time for such preparation. 

 The spot upon which the young tree is to be 

 set, as well as that of the border, to the extent 

 of 4 or 5 feet from the stem, should, however, 

 be prepared to that extent at the time of plant- 

 ing. This will afford sufficient scope for the 

 roots of most trees during the first, and pro- 

 bably the second season ; and additions to this 

 can be made from time to time afterwards. 



We are of those who believe that this yearly 

 adding new soil to the roots of fruit trees is in- 

 finitely better than making the border, unless 

 in the case of new gardens, all at once. A pre- 

 pared space, with a radius of 4 feet, is amply 

 sufficient for the roots of any tree for the first 

 year after planting ; that space to be yearly ex- 

 tended by removing a zone of 18 inches or 2 feet 

 in breadth, and filling it up with prepared new 

 soil. It gives the operator, at the same time, 

 an opportunity of regulating the extension of 

 the roots, either by curtailing them, should a 

 too luxuriant habit be indicated, or to encourage 

 them with generous food, should an opposite 

 state be apparent. Under some circumstances 

 it is more convenient also, as requiring neither 

 an extraordinary qiiantity of material nor an 

 extra amount of labour at one time. This indul- 

 gence, however, should not be allowed to extend 

 so far as, after a year or two's compliance with 

 the rule, to neglect it altogether. The subject 

 of concreting, vaulting, ventilating, &c, has 

 been already explained in vol. i. pp. 27-32 ; 

 and as further notice of these improvements 

 will be found in the forcing-garden department, 



