364 



HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



loosening the ground below, applying, if need 

 be, fresh soil, either in whole or in part, and 

 taking care that the roots be not placed too 

 deep, may be considered as one who looks upon 

 a tree as a living subject, whose life is to be 

 rendered long and vigorous by a good supply of 

 food, and a soil mellow and easily penetrated 

 by the smallest fibre. He, on the other hand, 

 who thrusts the roots of his trees into the 

 smallest possible hole, and supplies them with 

 the least possible quantity of proper soil — trust- 

 ing to what he seems to believe the inex- 

 tinguishable powers of nature to make roots 

 and branches under any circumstances — is start- 

 ing in a very false direction. 



" There is an unhappy propensity prevalent 

 to consider a tree as destitute of the wants of 

 plants in general, and to believe that if it is 

 provided with sufficient soil to cover its roots — 

 no matter what the quality may be — it cannot 

 possibly fail to thrive ; but, on the contrary, 

 care and attention are as imperative in prepar- 

 ing the soil for trees, and will be followed with 

 equally satisfactory results, as in the treatment 

 of any other of our cultivated plants." — Stan- 

 dish, in Practical Hints on Planting Ornamen- 

 tal Trees, p. 6. 



The size of the pits for the reception of the 

 roots depends much upon the circumstances 

 whether the ground has been thoroughly pre- 

 pared by draining, trenching, and the addition 

 of proper soil, or whether the tree is to be 

 planted where other trees formerly stood. In 

 the first case, an opening twice the diameter of 

 the roots, as we have formerly stated, when 

 fully spread out, will be sufficient ; while, in 

 the latter case, the space should be at least 

 double that size, having the whole of the old 

 soil removed, and replaced with new. 



Filling in the soil at transplanting. — This is an 

 important matter in securing success. When 

 the roots are spread out to their full extent on 

 the prepared bed — which should not be the hard 

 and impervious subsoil, but a bed of prepared 

 compost, into which the roots may penetrate 

 and find nourishment — the soil, which should 

 be well pulverised, must be worked in, so that 

 every part of the surface of the roots may be 

 covered. Much of the success in transplanting 

 depends on this ; and more fully to accomplish 

 it, water in moderate quantities may be given, 

 particularly in light soils, to wash the finer par- 

 ticles among the roots, so that no cavities may 

 be left about them. Watering at autumn plant- 

 ing is, however, of much less importance than 

 in spring, particularly if the planting has been 

 delayed to a late period. Where the soil can be 

 wrought properly around the roots in a dryish 

 state, so much the better, as the rains during 

 winter will consolidate it, and supply the roots 

 with the humidity they require. Although we 

 here recommend filling in around the roots with 

 finely-pulverised soil, we mean that only so far 

 as to cover them. The compost beyond this can 

 hardly be too fresh, and should contain a large 

 portion of fibrous matter, such as turf taken 

 from a rich field cut up into pieces by the spade, 

 which is a very necessary precaution in the case of 

 trees planted in what are called preparedborders. 



" In filling in the soil, avoid the absurd, although 

 very general practice, of moving the tree back- 

 wards and forwards to get the soil down among 

 the roots. This I have called an absurd prac- 

 tice, for every pull you give the top draws the 

 roots out of their places; and when the tree 

 goes back into its proper place, the roots, being 

 unable to push themselves back again, remain 

 doubled up under the tree, thus thwarting the 

 object you had in view, of spreading the roots 

 carefully out at the commencement." — Middle- 

 mas in Magazine of Botany. 



In planting fruit-trees where the subsoil is of 

 indifferent quality, it is advisable to place under 

 each a piece of pavement 3 feet square and 

 about a foot or 15 inches under the surface, 

 that the descending roots, when they come in 

 contact with it, may be made to take a horizon- 

 tal direction instead of a perpendicular one. This 

 is one great means of keeping them near the sur- 

 face, and has been found of much advantage in 

 this respect, even when the soil is of the very 

 best quality, and whether the bottom of the 

 border has been concreted, vaulted, or rest- 

 ing on a drainage of broken stones or not. Where 

 these improved modes have not been attended 

 to, such pieces of pavement may be of larger 

 size; and where the subsoil is wet, cold, or bad, 

 they should be laid hollow underneath, that 

 dryness may be secured. This is a practice of 

 old standing, many of the oldest fruit-trees still 

 existing in monastic gardens being found so pro- 

 vided. In planting where the ground has not 

 been thoroughly prepared, instead of filling in 

 the soil only taken from the pit, it is of advan- 

 tage, after the rootlets are slightly covered with 

 fine compost, or the best of that taken out of the 

 hole, to break down the sides of the pit all 

 around, and to use it also for working in amongst 

 the roots, as by this means the size of the pit is 

 increased, and the scope of loosened soil for 

 the roots considerably extended. In planting 

 rare or ornamental trees in parks, the surface 

 turf should be broken down and placed in the 

 bottom of the pit; and where it can be spared, a 

 ring of turf should be taken off all around, and 

 wrought up along with the soil used in covering 

 the roots. 



Treading the soil about the roots of trees at trans- 

 planting is a dangerous operation, more honour- 

 ed in the breach than the observance. The soil 

 should be carefully wrought in about the roots 

 by the hand or with the end of a blunt stick; for 

 the pressure of the foot, unless carefully applied, 

 is apt to break off the principal roots unobserved. 



Manuring trees at transplanting. — This is an 

 old and barbarous custom, practised only by 

 those who know nothing at all about the matter. 

 Naturally rich and fresh loam is all the manure 

 they require. Trees require manuring only 

 when, by reason of old age, or by having ex- 

 hausted the food natural to them within the 

 range of their roots, they become exhausted 

 from want of sufficient food. 



Mulching trees at transplanting is an old but 

 useful practice. It means covering the surface 

 above where the roots are, immediately after 

 planting, with light littery matter — moss, de- 

 cayed leaves, or the like— with a view to exclude 



