ROSARY. 



759 



This constitutes all the pruning required for 

 several years, beyond the mere removal of dead 

 wood or a few shoots annually when they appear 

 crowded. The selection, however, of strong 

 stocks is important; not less than an inch in 

 diameter at their top, when such can be pro- 

 cured, are the best, and from 4 to 6 feet in 

 height. If the stocks are planted where they 

 are to remain, three shoots, if possible, should, 

 be secured, into each of which a bud should be 

 inserted ; and when the shoots the following 

 season have attained the length of 6 inches, the 

 top must be pinched off. which will induce the 

 formation of laterals ; if all the three buds have 

 succeeded, the shoots proceeding from them 

 should be allowed afterwards to extend without 

 farther shortening. If two only of the buds 

 have taken, then their shoots must be stopped 

 again and again, until a sufficient number be 

 obtained to form a well-furnished head. Roses 

 trained in this way produce abundance of bloom, 

 and are far more graceful and natural than such 

 as are grown as standards in the usual manner. 

 All roses do not alike suit this style of training, 

 and on a proper selection, as well as on the 

 strength of the stock, much of the success 

 depends. The following are well adapted for 

 the purpose — Felicite perpetuelle, Donna Maria, 

 Princess Maria, Myrianthes, Banksiseflora, Prin- 

 cess Louise, Rose Araadis, Boursault inermis, 

 Boursault gracilis, Thoresbyana, Dundee ram- 

 bler, Ruga, Splendens, Adelaide d'Orleans, 

 Spectabilis, &c. 



In regard to situation, the lawn is unquestion- 

 ably the most fitting place for weeping roses, as 

 the points of their shoots rest on the grassy 

 surface ; and while in bloom, each plant forms 

 a perfect dome of roses. These, if allowed to 

 remain unpruned and unchecked, will continue 

 for several years in all the freshness of unas- 

 sisted nature. 



Hybrid Perpetuals are also well adapted for 

 planting in groups on the lawn ; and as they 

 afford us not only our earliest, but also our latest 

 flowers, they should be planted extensively. A 

 rich soil and a warm situation are, however, 

 absolutely necessary to insure this early and 

 late blooming, particularly the latter. This, in 

 favourable situations, is greatly assisted by short- 

 ening every shoot that has produced its bloom, 

 as soon as the flower fades, to within three or 

 four buds of its base. Planting this section of 

 roses in a promiscuous manner seldom produces 

 a pleasing effect on the lawn, because they vary 

 so much in their habits of growth ; but plant- 

 ing the finer varieties only, and each of these in 

 a bed or group by itself, will be found by far 

 the most satisfactory — preferring, as Mr Rivers 

 has remarked, "to have a small clump of each sort 

 rather than a large one of mixed varieties. The 

 lawn may thus be painted with excellent effect." 

 A bed or group of each of the following is re- 

 commended by this enthusiastic cultivator — 

 viz., one of Aubernon, one of Augustine Mou- 

 chelet, one of Baronne Prevost, one of Comtesse 

 Duchatel, one of Dr Marx, one of Due d'Aumale, 

 one of Duchess of Sutherland, one of Lady Alice 

 Peel, one of La Reine, one of Madame Laffay, 

 one of Marquise Boccella, and one of Robin 



Hood. Each of these beds containing from ten 

 to twenty plants which will flower from May to 

 November, will afford much more gratification 

 to the owner than if his collection extended to 

 a much greater number of varieties planted in 

 the mixed manner. To the above list we may 

 add that rose of roses, Ge'ant des Batailles, Mrs 

 Elliott, Comte de Montalivet, Mrs Rivers, 

 Sidonie, &c. 



Standard roses are often planted as single 

 specimens on the lawn, sometimes in groups of 

 three, five, or seven, and not unfrequently in 

 lines by the sides of the walks, &c. Now, all 

 this, so far as the arrangement goes, is very well, 

 while in nine cases out of ten the planting is 

 very ill. The plants, when received from the 

 nursery, are thrust into holes scarcely large 

 enough to contain their roots, in poor soil, 

 saturated with wet, or perad venture in sheer 

 sand, incapable of retaining sufficient moisture 

 for their existence. Instead of this, pits should 

 be dug for each plant not less than 3 feet in 

 diameter, and 2 feet in depth, and filled with 

 rich loamy soil. It is not necessary, however, 

 that this space be entirely left uncovered with 

 grass, as in such a case the lawn, if small, would 

 be too much cut up. The space necessary to be 

 left uncovered may be restricted to 2 feet in 

 diameter, and the remainder turfed over — plac- 

 ing, however, under it 2 inches of sand, to pre- 

 vent the grass from growing too luxuriantly, or 

 stronger than that of the rest of the lawn. 



Each plant should be supported by a neat iron 

 stake, and both that and the stem of the tree, 

 if covered with moss, will have a neater appear- 

 ance than left bare. The moss also prevents the 

 action of excessive sun-heat on the stem during 

 summer, and, by keeping the bark somewhat 

 moist, favours the free ascent of the sap from 

 the roots to the branches of the tree. Liquid 

 manure should be frequently applied, particu- 

 larly during the heat of summer and growing 

 season of the plant. 



Propagation. — The rose is propagated by 

 seed, by budding, grafting, cuttings, layers, and. 

 suckers. 



By seed. — The seed-vessels should be left on 

 the trees until they are perfectly ripened, at 

 which time the skin of the hip or vessel becomes 

 almost black. They should then be placed in 

 small pots imbedded in sand, and each sort kept 

 separate, and buried underground till spring. 

 About the beginning of February is a good 

 time to prepare for sowing ; at which time the 

 seed-pods should be taken out of the pots and 

 rubbed between the hands until the seed be- 

 comes separated from the pulp and skin. 

 They should then be sown in pots or pans, in 

 light loamy soil, and, when watered, covered to 

 the depth of half an inch with the same com- 

 post mixed with a little sand. They may then 

 be placed in a cool pit or frame, or plunged at 

 the bottom of a wall, and kept in a uniform state 

 of moisture. The plants will appear during 

 summer, and be fit for transplanting the following 

 spring. Many of the seeds will not vegetate the 

 first year, therefore those which remain dormant 

 should be picked out when the young plants 

 are removed and resown, when they will, for the 



