ROSARY. 



769 



does not uphold the recommendation. If a 

 change of stock is necessary for such, it would 

 seem that one of a finer, not coarser, nature 

 than the Dog rose should be employed. That 

 the plants grow more vigorously on the Manet- 

 tii the first year we do not deny, but their subse- 

 quent decline is also more rapid." Upon a careful 

 examination recently of the roses in our own col- 

 lection, we are inclined to agree with the former 

 authority, finding that many of our most delicate 

 roses, in our dry light soil, succeed better on the 

 Manettii than on the Dog rose stock ; nor have 

 we found the period of their existence during 

 the course of our observations shortened, but 

 rather the reverse. 



'fender roses. — Many of the more tender and 

 weakly-growing roses may be successfully culti- 

 vated if grown on their own roots, and planted 

 in a well-prepared border sloping towards the 

 south, and sheltered from the east and west 

 winds. The plants — of course, we speak of the 

 dwarf-growing sorts — should be set at the dis- 

 tance of 10 or 12 inches apart, and having the 

 spaces between them filled up with large pieces 

 of scoria, stones, &c, forming a sort of rock-work, 

 which would afford protection to the roots from 

 severe frosts, and also to their tops, the stones 

 rising to about half the height of the plants. 

 As a further protection to the roots, as well as 

 giving the whole a more neat and orderly ap- 

 pearance, the spaces between the stones may be 

 covered with green moss. Beds of delicate 

 roses may in this way be introduced on the lawn 

 both with good effect and success, and the more 

 so if they be raised in the centre, particularly in 

 the case of circular beds. In placing the stones, 

 they should be so arranged that while they 

 afford shelter to the flowers, the rays of the sun 

 should not be intercepted, for the object is to 

 afford shelter, and not shade. 



Pegging down roses. — The stronger and hardier 

 old sorts may be so treated, and when well 

 selected and managed have a good effect, espe- 

 cially if the ground under them be covered with 

 moss, flints, or small stones, to retain moisture 

 at the roots in dry soils, and to prevent the 

 flowers being splashed with mud during heavy 

 rains. The practice is, however, not good as 

 regards China, Tea, and Bourbon roses, because 

 the shoots, when once bent down, seldom con- 

 tinue to grow longer, on account of a number of 

 strong shoots which will be induced to spring 

 up below the bent parts; and these will mono- 

 polise to themselves the sap which would other- 

 wise go to the maintenance of the shoots bent 

 down, and enable them to perfect their blooms. 

 This so far might be corrected, if all such 

 shoots as are not absolutely required for next 

 year's flowering were cut off upon their first 

 appearance. This would not only allow a greater 

 share of nourishment to flow into the bent-down 

 shoots, but it would also have the effect of 

 showing the flower to much greater advantage. 



For invigorating roses, particularly such as are 

 grown in a poor light soil, from the time the 

 rose-buds have begun to form until the flowers 

 of the season have ceased to be produced, copious 

 waterings in an enriched state should be applied 

 to the roots, and frequent syringing over the 



leaves with clear water should be attended to. 

 As soon as the blooms drop, their remains 

 should be cut off; for allowing the rose to pro- 

 duce seed is more exhausting to it than two 

 crops of flowers. 



Labels for roses. — Where a collection of roses 

 is grown, it is most desirable that they be 

 labelled, that the owner may know what sorts he 

 has before making further purchases. When 

 roses, like all other plants, are correctly named, 

 it affords no small gratification, and enables 

 the amateur to become conversant with the 

 nomenclature, as well as indicates that system 

 and order prevail in the garden. Of all labels, 

 suspended ones are the best, particularly for 

 pillar or standard plants, as the name is brought 

 within a proper distance to the eye ; and also 

 because they are less liable to decay than such 

 as are stuck in the ground, and are beyond the 

 chance of displacement during the process of 

 digging or hoeing the ground. These may be 

 made of pine lath, cut in lengths of 3 inches, 

 and about an inch in breadth, and one-fourth of 

 an inch in thickness, having a perforation near 

 the middle and towards the upper edge, suffi- 

 cient to admit a piece of brass or copper wire, 

 by which the label may be secured to the stem 

 of the plant, the pole which supports it, or to 

 the branches themselves. On this label, while 

 the paint (which should be white) is still wet, 

 the name of the variety, and the section to 

 which it belongs, should be legibly written with 

 a dark pencil. Such labels will last for two 

 years, and if repainted and rewritten at the 

 expiration of that period, will last as long. 

 Similar labels, but of smaller size, with merely 

 a number written upon them corresponding 

 with the number opposite the name in the rose- 

 book, form even a more economical and less 

 troublesome way, as is also stamping the num- 

 bers on leaden labels, painting them on zinc or 

 other metallic ones, or stamping them on thin 

 slips of lead 3 inches long and half an inch in 

 breadth, twisting the end farthest from the 

 number round the stem or branch. Oak or 

 pine labels 12 inches long, 2 inches broad, and 

 1 4 inches in thickness, having the part stuck in 

 the ground charred or covered with pitch, ex- 

 tending about an inch above the surface of the 

 ground, and having the name written in full, or 

 the number, as above, is also a very good way of 

 labelling. Such labels will, however, last only 

 for a year or two without renewal. In very 

 large collections, cast-iron labels, with the num- 

 bers cast on their face, or the name or number 

 painted on them, are more durable. But the 

 most elegant and most durable are porcelain, or 

 copper enamelled on one side, having the name or 

 number first printed or written on it, and after- 

 wards burnt in. Whatever kind of label is 

 used, it is important that they be yearly ex- 

 amined, to see that none are displaced or obli- 

 terated. Many other sorts of labels have been 

 recommended; those that are most durable, for 

 very obvious reasons, are certainly to be pre- 

 ferred. 



Growing roses in pots. — This is a modern 

 branch of rose-culture, the absolute utility of 

 which, so far as hardy roses are concerned, does 



