THE FLORISTS' FLOWER GARDEN. 



797 



fecundating these species together, and the end- 

 less varieties continued and increased by cross- 

 ing one variety with another, or saving seed 

 from approved sorts which of themselves pro- 

 duce considerable variety. 



Soil. — For pot-culture the soil should be well- 

 decomposed turfy loam, leaf-mould, and very 

 rotten stable-manure or cow-dung, thoroughly 

 incorporated and turned over several times be- 

 fore using, at which times a careful search 

 should be made for wire-worm, which often 

 abound in turfy loam. The proportions should 

 be half a bushel of the two latter to one and a 

 half of the former, unless the loam be of a light 

 sandy nature, when nearly equal parts of each 

 will be a good compost. When the loam is 

 stiff, a portion of river or washed sand should 

 be added. Although the pansy will grow in 

 most soils, ranging from a stiff clay to sheer 

 sand, still, for the purpose of blooming it in 

 perfection, a prepared bed should be afforded 

 it ; and we have found one constructed as fol- 

 lows to answer the purpose admirably : the 

 sides and ends constructed of 9-inch brickwork, 

 and carried up to the height of 18 inches above 

 the surface of the ground, the width being 4 

 feet, and the length corresponding to the num- 

 ber of plants to be grown. The object of this 

 is to prevent the intrusion of wire-worm and 

 their natural enemy the mole, and also to ele- 

 vate the flowers near the eye, so that they may 

 be examined without the necessity of stooping. 

 The bed, thus far prepared, is filled with the 

 compost recommended above for pot-culture, 

 and is removed entirely or partially yearly. 

 During the drought of spring and heat of sum- 

 mer such beds require copious watering, care 

 being, however, taken that, from the time the 

 flowers begin to expand, the water be applied to 

 the surface of the soil only. The best situation 

 for such a bed is one sheltered from the sun 

 during the hottest part of the day; and when 

 that is inconvenient, then recourse must be had 

 to partial shading, by suspending a thin canvass 

 screen along the south side of the bed. 



Planting and potting. — About the first week 

 in October a selection should be made of young 

 stout healthy plants for potting. These should 

 be set in 4 -inch pots in the compost already 

 recommended, and placed in frames or pits, 

 where they can be protected from heavy rains, 

 but otherwise fully exposed to the weather 

 until frost sets in. During winter abundance 

 of air must be given during fine days, and the 

 plants frequently examined, so that they may not 

 suffer either from damp or excessive drought. 

 About the beginning of February is a proper 

 time for shifting them into the pots in which 

 they are to bloom, which should be from 6 to 8 

 inches in diameter, according to the strength of 

 the plants and size of the variety. In potting, 

 drainage should be attended to; and over that 

 an inch of rotten cow-dung may be placed to 

 nourish the roots when they descend so deep, 

 which will be about the time the plants are 

 coming into bloom, a period of their existence 

 when they require the greatest amount of stimu- 

 lant. If the roots and the soil around them 

 are in a good state, the ball should not be re- 

 YOL II. 



duced farther than taking a little off the sur- 

 face of the top and softening the sides. The 

 soil used should be tolerably dry, and must not 

 be pressed down too hard. Place the plants in 

 a frame or pit with a full southern and open 

 exposure, setting the pots on a floor of sifted 

 coal-ashes. Place the glass sashes over them, 

 and admit air daily, according to the state of 

 the weather. Water slightly for a fortnight or 

 three weeks, using tepid water, and applying it 

 early in the day. Keep the plants close to the 

 glass, and sufficiently apart from each other, 

 that the air may circulate freely amongst them. 

 If green-fly appears, recourse must be had to 

 fumigation. Turn the plants occasionally round, 

 that each side may alike enjoy the sun. The 

 surface of the soil should be stirred from time 

 to time to prevent the appearance of mucous 

 matter, and a slight top-dressing towards the 

 beginning of March will be of advantage. 



The beginning of October is the season for 

 planting in the open beds, because the plants 

 become established before the growing season 

 closes, and are therefore better fitted to with- 

 stand the winter. The plants should be healthy 

 and vigorous, but not too large. The strong- 

 growing kinds, particularly if large blooms are 

 required for exhibition, should be planted 15 

 inches apart, and 10 inches may be regarded as a 

 proper distance for moderate or weakly growers. 

 If planted on elevated beds, as we have sug- 

 gested, little other care will be required till 

 spring except the removal of dead leaves, and 

 covering the surface of the soil between the 

 plants with a slight mulching of rotten dung, 

 and in damp localities a thin covering of sifted 

 coal-ashes to counteract damp. 



Propagation by seed. — The beginning of May, 

 August, and September, is the best season for 

 sowing the seed saved from approved sorts the 

 preceding autumn, spring, and summer. All 

 seed procured after the middle of September 

 should be kept till the May following. Sow in 

 pans, in a compost similar to that recommended 

 for potting, only in this case it requires to be 

 passed through a half-inch sieve, or otherwise 

 rendered finer than when used for potting. 

 Sow thinly, and place the seed-pans in a gentle 

 heat. When the seedlings appear, great care 

 must be taken in watering, as the young plants 

 are apt to damp off close by the surface. Abun- 

 dance of air is necessary, and the operation of 

 pricking off into nursery-beds should be attend- 

 ed to as soon as the plants are fit to handle. A. 

 partially shaded border is the best place for 

 them, and if covered for ten days after removal 

 with a glass frame, so much sooner will they 

 become established. 



Propagation by cuttings. — This operation may 

 be carried on throughout the whole year, with 

 less success, however, during the dead of winter 

 and the excessive heat of summer. In March, 

 April, September, and October, they are found 

 to strike most readily. 



In the case of choice or valuable sorts, cut- 

 tings should be taken off as fast as they are 

 produced. Those taken off in March, April, 

 and May, should be planted in a northern bor- 

 der, and will produce a supply of bloom until 



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