802 



OPEN FLOWER-GARDEN. 



five weeks the young plants will appear, when 

 great vigilance will be required to guard them 

 against the attacks of insects, dry cutting winds, 

 and even severe frosts. In May remove the 

 seed-pans to an open border, where the morn- 

 ing sun only shines upon them, and plunge 

 them in the soil. Here they should remain 

 till the middle of July, when the foliage will 

 begin to ripen and turn yellow : at this time 

 water must be withheld, and if covered with a 

 spare glass frame so much the better. When 

 the foliage has totally disappeared, the roots 

 will be ripe, and in a very proper state for tak- 

 ing out of the soil. This must be done with 

 care, so that none of the very small ones be 

 left behind, as these often turn out the finest 

 varieties. Dry the roots moderately in the 

 shade, and pack them in boxes amongst dry 

 sand. 



Planting. — In good seasons, and in dry and 

 favourable situations, the middle of October 

 will be found the best season for planting. The 

 latest period at which this can be safely done is 

 the beginning of February. By following the 

 former course, the roots suffer less from being 

 kept dry; they also begin to vegetate slowly 

 on account of the soil not being as yet cooled 

 down by frost, enabling them to make fresh 

 roots, and so be in a condition to start strongly 

 into growth early in spring. Some object to 

 autumn planting, alleging there is danger to be 

 apprehended from frost. Of this we have no 

 fear; and even were it so, frost could be ex- 

 cluded by a thin covering of litter laid over the 

 beds. The Messrs Tyso appear to be in favour 

 of spring-planting, and remark, " Considerable 

 hazard, however, attends autumn-planting, and 

 it is not recommended, except by way of experi- 

 ment, to those who possess a large stock, and 

 can afford to risk a portion." Their process of 

 planting in no respect differs from our own ; we 

 shall therefore quote from their excellent little 

 work, " The Ranunculus : How to Grow it ; or, 

 Practical Instructions in its Cultivation." " In 

 fine weather rake the beds perfectly level, and 

 divide them into six longitudinal rows for mixed 

 roots, allowing 4 inches from the outside row to 

 the edge ; or for named sorts, mark the rows 

 transversely, at distances of 5 inches asunder, 

 and plant six roots in a transverse row. Draw 

 drills an inch and a half deep, and plant the roots 

 with the claws downwards, with a gentle pressure 

 to secure them in the soil, so as to be an inch and 

 a half from the crowns to the surface. "When 

 planting on a small scale, a dibber with a 

 shoulder at the precise depth may be used; but 

 in large quantities it is an inconvenient method ; 

 and planting at the bottom of a drill with slight 

 pressure, and without disturbing the subsoil, is 

 attended with similar advantages to the use of 

 the dibber, and in practice will be found to have 

 some points of preference. If the top soil is 

 light after planting, it may be gently beaten 

 with the back of a spade. This operation must 

 be only done in dry weather." Seedlings are 

 to be planted in the same manner as above, 

 and at the same distance ; for although the 

 roots are small at planting, they will grow the 

 first year to full size, in some cases making 



stronger plants than the old-established roots. 

 The Turban ranunculus is hardier than the 

 common, and in all cases they should be planted 

 in October. 



Taking up the roots. — The roots are fit for 

 taking up when the foliage has died down ; and 

 in dry seasons and soils this should then be 

 done. In wet soils — and such, we may remark, 

 are very unfavourable for this plant — and in 

 late wet seasons, the roots should be taken up 

 before the foliage has completely died down, 

 and just after it has assumed a yellowish colour. 

 It is worthy of remark here that there is danger 

 in allowing the roots to remain too long in the 

 ground, because, particularly in wet seasons, 

 they are apt to begin growing again, so that 

 this must be guarded against. When taken up, 

 the roots should be gradually dried, cleaned of 

 soil, and placed in shallow drawers, or in can- 

 vass or paper bags, and kept in a dark dry 

 place, secured from mice, and occasionally exa- 

 mined until the time of planting again arrives. 



Soil and situation. — Some florists attach great 

 importance to the soil; and in former times 

 strange composts were formed, and these often 

 of most antagonistic character. Experience 

 teaches us that the Asiatic species and its 

 numerous cultivated varieties will prosper in 

 the highest degree in soil similar to that in 

 which our native species of buttercups are 

 found — namely, a rich hazelly loam. Pas- 

 tures, therefore, in which these are found to 

 abound, are the places from which to draw a sup- 

 ply for the beds. This, however, requires some 

 slight preparation, and probably enrichment. 

 It should therefore be taken off about 10 

 inches deep, carted to the compost-yard, laid 

 up in a heap, keeping the green surfaces of the 

 turf inwards ; and as the process of forming the 

 heap goes on, lay into it a portion of pretty 

 well decomposed stable or cow dung. Turn 

 the heap over two or three times within a 

 twelvemonth, chopping it down in sections at 

 each turning, that the turfy matter may be well 

 broken down, and the manure thoroughly incor- 

 porated with it. The proportion of manure to 

 the soil, in most cases, should be about one- 

 third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. 

 Rank or over-stimulating manure is fatal to the 

 roots, and engenders disease in the tubers. In 

 regard to situation, an open but not an exposed 

 one is the best. Some attach importance to the 

 direction the beds are placed in, some advocat- 

 ing an east and west, while others prefer a south 

 and north direction; for ourselves, we cannot 

 see a shade of difference, all other things being 

 favourable. The Messrs Tyso approve of the 

 former; and their instructions for the formation 

 of the beds, like that of the soil, are so good 

 that we shall transcribe them here. " Remove 

 the earth (the soil of the garden) a foot deep, 

 and from 3 feet to 3 feet 4 inches wide, and 

 fill the bed with the prepared compost to 

 within 2 inches of the surface; leave it thus for 

 a month, and then add the reserved top-soil. 

 These operations are best done in autumn, that 

 time may be allowed for the earth to settle. 

 The surface of the bed should be level, and not 

 more than an inch higher than the paths, in 



