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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



principal mountain over 20,000 feet. A 

 few days later, with two natives with 

 whom he had started to study another 

 side of the mountain for a more feasible 

 route, he perished in some unknown man- 

 ner.* 



It was in 1898 that Doctor and Mrs 

 W. H. Workman, of Worcester, Massa- 

 chusetts, began the series of excursions 

 that have placed their names among the 

 very highest on the roll of Himalayan 

 explorers. That year they traversed sev- 

 eral high passes ; the following, they 

 reached Hi spar Pass and climbed the 

 Siegfried Horn (18,600), Mount Bullock- 

 Workman (19,450), and Koser Gunge 

 (21,000). In 1902 they explored the 

 Chogo-Lungma Glacier and three of its 

 principal branches, climbing also several 

 secondary peaks ; in 1903 they explored 

 the Hoh Lumba and Sosbon glaciers to 

 their sources and made first ascents of 

 Mount Chogo (21,500) and Mount 

 Lungma (22,568) ; in 1906 they made the 

 first exploration of the Nun Kun range, 

 in which expedition Mrs Bullock- Work- 

 man reached the summit of Pinnacle 

 Peak (23,300) ; they also climbed in this 

 year Mount Nieves Penitentes (19,080) 

 and D t (20,571). During the season of 

 1908 they successfully completed a de- 

 tailed survey of the Hunza-Nagar and 

 Hispar glaciers. From a camp at over 

 19,000 feet, near the Hispar Pass, they 

 climbed a "very abrupt knife-edge slant 

 of over 2,000 feet ; the height of the 

 mountain will probably work out between 

 21,000 and 22,000 feet." 



A notable excursion was made in 1899 

 by Messrs Freshfield and Garwood and 

 Signor Sella entirely around the princi- 

 pal group of the Sikkim Himalayas, be- 

 tween the Teesta and Zemu rivers on the 

 east and the Kangbachen torrent on the 

 west, crossing the Jonsong-La (20.348), 

 the story of which, illustrated by Sella's 

 marvelous pictures, is told by Mr Fresh- 

 field in his "Around Kangchenjunga" 

 (Arnold, London, 1903). 



* See Climbing on the Himalaya and other 

 Mountain Ranges, by J. N. Collie. Edinburgh, 

 Douglas, 1902. 



And finally we record the two events 

 that gave a distinction to the year 1907, 

 the jubilee year of the Alpine Club; the 

 ascent, by Dr T. G. Longstaff, of Trisul 

 (23,406), in the Garhwal, in which he 

 made the remarkable speed-record (for 

 such altitudes) of 6,000 feet in ten hours; 

 and the ascent of Kabru (24,015), a 

 "guideless climb" by two Norwegians,* 

 C. W. Rubenson and Monrad-Aas, who 

 disclaim "the distinction of being expert 

 mountaineers," and, if we may take their 

 word for it, are more pleased at the fact 

 that they spent "twelve or thirteen days 

 at a height of 19,500 feet and higher" 

 than with holding the unchallenged rec- 

 ord for farthest up. Their highest camp 

 was at 22,600 feet, the loftiest elevation 

 at which man has passed the night. They 

 complain but little of the effects of rare- 

 fied air, and their feat would seem to re- 

 move every shade of improbability from 

 the claim of the experienced Graham, 

 who was accompanied in his climbs bv 

 one of the best Swiss guides of his day. 



IN AMERICA 



Returning now to the Western Conti- 

 nent, it may be in order to say a few 

 words concerning the development of 

 mountaineering as a sport on this side of 

 the Atlantic. 



That the proper temperament exists 

 here is shown by the popularity of moun- 

 tain clubs, the first of which, the so-called 

 "Alpine Club" of Williamstown, Massa- 

 chusetts, borrowed its name from its 

 more distinguished predecessor as early 

 as 1863, only seven years after the found- 

 ing of the mother club so prolific in 

 progeny. It, in turn, was the forerunner 

 of the Appalachian Mountain Club 

 (1876), which has at present some 1,600 

 members. This society has flourished in 

 a region possessing no mountains that 

 can lay the slightest claim to alpine char- 

 acteristics, unless it be in the depth of a 

 rigorous New England winter, when the 

 broad-backed ridges of the Mount Wash- 

 ington range (4,000-6,300) simulate with 



* See article "Kabru," by C. W. Rubenson, in 

 Alpine Journal (182) for November, 1908. 



