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all the knights sought to deserve this recognition as a personal dis- 

 tinction, and in due time had them shown on their effigies. The 

 chief collar that is met with at this period is the Lancastrian collar 

 of Henry IV, of the S. S. (an abbreviation of Sovereyne or King), to 

 be followed by the Yorkist collar of Edward IV, formed of alternate 

 Suns and Roses. When the Tudors finally succeeded to permanent 

 sovereignty the two Houses combined and employed the well known 

 badge of the Tudor rose, and the Yorkist collar naturally dis- 

 appeared from use with the losing cause. The collar of S. S., how- 

 ever, is still part of the official insignia of our Judges. Beaufort must 

 have received such a collar as 9 sign of his attachment to the 

 Lancastrian dynasty. Below the left knee he wears the Garter, the 

 simplest sign represented on effigies to show that the wearer was a 

 Knight of the Order of the Garter, and in this case no doubt 

 conferred upon him for his loyal services to the Throne. It is buckled 

 with the end arranged in a special knot and is similar to the Garter 

 we are accustomed to at the present day. 



On many monumental effigies we find the complete costume of 

 the Order is shown, viz., the mantle, the collar with the pendant 

 George, and the Garter, but in this instance there is only the Garter. 

 Taken in all its details this effigy affords many interesting points for 

 examination and enquiry. We will leave the consideration of 

 the Lady Margaret's costume until later, when we can briefly 

 trace the chief fashions that were adopted by ladies at different 

 times. We will therefore consider armour for a little longer. 



In Henry VIII's time suits of armour were made of the most 

 beautiful workmanship, which retained all the details of the separate 

 pieces formerly used in battle, but which were now only needed for 

 purposes of show, or for tilting, with hollow lances tipped with blunt 

 points. Many of these suits are preserved in the Tower and at 

 Windsor and from these examples we learn that the armour still 

 consists of a headpiece, bodyguard, heavy shoulder pieces and care- 

 ful protection for all parts of the body, just as in the Beaufort figure, 

 but the pieces are fluted and engraved in elaborate pattern to give 

 a highly decorative appearance. The use of gunpowder and the 

 methods of fighting by masses of lightly armed soldiers led by active 

 leaders on horseback had done away with the use of the heavy 

 armour in actual warfare, so that when we come to the end of the 

 1 6th century in the time of Elizabeth great changes are to be noticed. 



Armour was still the official dress of nobles and knights, and 

 many a quiet country personage whose time was occupied in looking 

 after his estates was accustomed to be shown dressed in armour such 

 as he never put on in his lifetime, and if he had, would have found it 

 as uncomfortable to move in as would a modern man. 



Let us consider this style more fully. The weight of 

 the pieces about the shoulders still remained as a protection against 

 bullets, but the helmet was gone and all the rest of the body was pro- 

 tected by much lighter coverings. Queen Elizabeth having set the 

 fashion of long waists, the nobles had to follow, and so we find the 

 breastplates brought down into a point, called peascod-shaped, and 

 the great extension at the hips required by fashion caused the leg 



