GLASS AND GLAZING. 



539 



puttied at all than to have too much 

 placed between the laps, as, after a time, 

 it falls out, and the thicker the body 

 is the more likely is this to happen. 

 The putty cannot be too thin for this 

 purpose, and indeed it is question- 

 able whether a little paint would 

 not be a good substitute. 



We are not advocates for large 

 squares of glass unless for con- 

 servatories and houses of the 

 first order ; and in large establish- 

 ments several sizes should be used. 

 For vineries, peach-houses, &c, moder- 

 ately sized squares should be employed ; 

 and for pits and less pretending struc- 

 tures, panes of one-half that size, as the 

 fractured squares of the former will cut 

 down to repair the latter. The glass 

 should be chosen flat, so that each pane 

 may fit close to the other ; and previous 

 to glazing a new sash, they should be first 

 fitted in to see that they are of a proper 

 size, and that they range in straight lines, 

 not only across each sash, but along the 

 whole length of the roof. When this is 

 arranged, the rebates should be bedded 

 with putty, and the glass pressed firmly 

 down upon it, and the sashes laid down 

 flat until the bedding has partially dried, 

 when the process of fore puttying should 

 be gone on with, or the system of painting 

 above described ; but in either case the 

 sashes should be kept quite flat, and not 

 set on edge, as is too frequently the case ; 

 as by the latter practice the glass is apt to 

 be shifted out of its proper place. 



The method described above of fixing 

 the glass by means of a narrow strip of 

 paint, instead of putty, may be adopted 

 with great advantage even when putty is 

 to be used. The paint will cause the 

 fore putty to adhere more closely to the 

 glass; and in the event of the putty 

 coming away, the above precaution will 

 prevent the entrance of wet both into the 

 house and also from lodging in the rebate 

 of the astragal. 



Read's mode of glazing. — The late Mr 

 John Read, the inventor of Read's patent 

 syringe and other useful garden imple- 

 ments, proposed a mode of glazing in 

 which the glass is let into rebates or 

 grooves cut into the astragals and side 

 rails of the sashes. The annexed cut, fig. 

 759, will explain the principle. It will, 

 however, be necessary to observe that the 



grooves on the right hand sides are deeper 

 than those on the left, which facilitates 



the introduction of the glass. When 

 the squares are properly arranged, the 

 space between the glass and the top of 

 the groove is filled with putty, which, 

 although in a very small body, is per- 

 fectly sufficient to answer the purpose of 

 keeping the squares in their proper places, 

 and also for excluding the wet. This 

 mode of glazing, and at the same time 

 of puttying the laps, is no doubt both the 

 strongest and most effectual for keeping 

 out wet, and, in regard to expense, does 

 not exceed that in ordinary use. The 

 grooves cut in the astragals should barely 

 exceed in breadth double the thickness of 

 the glass. We use this mode of glazing 

 very extensively, considering it preferable 

 to most others. A somewhat similar plan 

 has been recommended by Mr Stevenson 

 in " Gardeners' Chronicle," with the view 

 of curing the damp " caused by the drip 

 from the astragals and side bars of the 

 lights, in consequence of bad glazing, to- 

 gether with the vapour rising from 

 within, and condensing on the under side 

 of the lights. To obviate this evil," he 

 says, " I had a frame made and fitted up 

 with astragals and side bars, as shown in 



Fig. 760. 



the above section, (fig. 760) which requires 

 no farther explanation than that a a 

 are grooves which catch the rain water 

 which finds its way inside, as well as the 

 condensed vapour, carrying it to the bot- 



