ZACUALTIPAN. 



66 



pointed out various remnants of old times. "We re- 

 marked the site of more than one Indian town, now only 

 indicated by swelling heaps of rubbish or sunken wells, 

 and some singularly shaped rocks, which tradition points 

 out as objects of idolatrous worship in ancient times. 



What we were most eager to visit, were certain In- 

 dian temples, of which we had heard much, and we 

 were accordingly conducted to a massive ruined church 

 of moderate size, situated a little below Zacualtipan, just 

 at the commencement of the great defile. Its erection 

 is referred to times prior to the conquest, but I have no 

 hesitation in saying, falsely so, like others which we in- 

 spected in this valley, in continuing our route. It is 

 strongly built of hewn stone, cemented by lime, and 

 adorned with a species of carved frieze, the very form 

 and drawing of which convinced me that that at least 

 was of Spanish workmanship. And a little further in- 

 spection and acquaintance with the undoubted erections 

 of the Aztec and Toltec nations, certified me that the 

 whole structure was of the same origin, though probably 

 built upon the site of a temple or teocallis of the abo- 

 rigines. In the course of the evening, we inspected an- 

 other of similar form and character, strikingly situated on 

 a knoll below the elevated village of San Bernardo, two 

 leagues below Zacualtipan, and overlooking the great 

 defile ; and to this the same observation applies. 



I had an awkward kind of adventure just before our 

 departure from the town. While all unarmed, peace- 

 ably sketching alone, in a secluded spot in the vicinity of 

 the church, I was attacked at disadvantage by a savage 

 patriot, either mad or drunk, or both, who from the cir- 

 cumstance of my having been seen more than once in 

 that precise position, in the purlieus of his solitary dwell- 

 ing, with paper and pencil, was pleased to consider me as 

 a spy, and accordingly followed and accosted me with 

 his naked sabre at my throat. That the fellow was ca- 

 pable of doing me some grievous bodily injury, all for the 

 love of Mejico y liberdad, if not for plunder, in spite of 

 my honest face and intentions, I am convinced ; and that 

 I felt very foolish, at being thus taken unaware, without 



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