82 MEXICO. 



and follow my own devices, I was abroad early and late. 

 Thanks to active habits, the disregard of heat and dust, 

 the occasional assistance of my steed Pinto, and a philo- 

 sophic contempt of the chances of being lassoed and 

 robbed — before half the period of our halt was at an end, 

 I had contrived to see a great deal both within and with- 

 out the city, and to learn something in spite of our disad- 

 vantages — and such there were. So far I am satisfied ; 

 at the same time that I have continually to keep in mind 

 the latter, and the brevity of our visit, when I recollect 

 how many and how interesting are the subjects and ob- 

 jects to which I have paid little or no attention. 



But my preface is finished ; and now, that I have ac- 

 tually glanced at Mexico, what kind of dish must I cook 

 and serve up to you ? Must I give you the literal and 

 homely hodgepodge of my own hasty diary ; daily no- 

 tices of personal occurrences, personal observations, and 

 personal reflections ; with cuttings from the conversa- 

 tion and information of those with whom we came in 

 contact ? or shall I dress you a dish of historical and sta- 

 tistical information, served up with a garnish of apt quo- 

 tations from Bullock and Poinsett, or still better, from 

 Humboldt — the first, the best, and the only really philo- 

 sophic modern traveller who ever visited New Spain, 

 whose researches, written thirty years ago, still form the 

 text book of every succeeding visiter ! 



Will you have a trifle, half indigestible solid, and half 

 evanescent froth, prepared from the shadowy history and 

 traditions of the aboriginal people ; shrouded in the mist 

 of hieroglyphic, emblematical, and enigmatical devices, 

 rendered yet more dim by the misconception, the misin- 

 terpretation, and the bigotry of the conquerors ; and still 

 more by the stupidity of modern conjurers and expound- 

 ers of enigmas: or a sober, well-seasoned regale from the 

 tale of the conquest, marvellous, even when those large 

 deductions which must be demanded, both by unimagin- 

 ative common sense and evident truth, have been made ? 

 The choice is an embarrassing one ; and allowing you to 

 take full time for decision, I invite you to partake in the 



