26 TAMPIC0. 



did little to raise the character of the conquered vassal? 

 the Mexican does less, if possible, to instruct the darker 

 skin whom he pretends to consider politically as his 

 equal, but whom, in fact, he always treats as his inferior. 

 They are as they ever were — governed by the priests, 

 and kept in utter ignorance. They supply the market 

 with fruits, water, and vegetables. 



You have here the modern Mexican of every degree, 

 from the substantial ranchero, or proprietor, bespurred, 

 and bedizzened in the full and showy Mexican costume 

 of stamped leather, embroidered vest, and gaudy serape, 

 and curbing a wild horse loaded with furniture ; or the 

 trusty arriero, with his long string of mules, his precious 

 cargo of specie, and his train of assistant mozos ; down 

 to the poor adventurer whose whole wardrobe consists 

 of a pair of faded velveteen trousers silt halfway up the 

 leg, and a tawdry cloak, haunting the gambling table, 

 and living upon what fortune sends. 



The costumes are extremely picturesque from their 

 diversity of colour and pattern, and the brilliant hues 

 in fashion. 1 have omitted to mention the soldiery, than 

 which a more shabaroon, cutthroat set, whether officers 

 or men, I never beheld. It is said that they fight well. 

 I do not dispute the on dit, but from all the evidence I 

 could ever collect, I have considerable difficulty in be- 

 lieving it. I think they would run better ; and I know 

 that on most occasions, they do so with very slight prov- 

 ocation, As to costume, nothing could be more divert- 

 ing. There was an orderly in attendance on a general 

 officer dwelling in our vicinity, who used to shamble 

 past our quarters every morning at a certain hour, garbed 

 in a short coatee, richly embroidered with worsted, 

 a clumsy sw r ord, a cap and sash, and never a strap or 

 shred upon his lower limbs — saving your presence. 



The Fonda de la Bolza, where you have seen us 

 lodged, was, at the time of our visit, in the hands of a 

 Frenchman. He was on the point of retiring with a 

 handsome independence drawn from divers sources : 

 to wit, the gleanings of the billiard tables below stairs — 

 the proceeds of the miserable lodgings above, let to gen- 



