110 MEXICO. 



the Indian speculators, and their families young and old* 

 Thence the cargoes are transported on the back, through 

 the press of rival mules, trooping in from the cahadas ; 

 and are deposited in the spacious market place near the 

 university. 



The spectacle afforded by this crowded area was a 

 never-failing source of interest — whether our observa- 

 tion was directed to the habits of the Indian, the varied 

 picturesque costumes, the nature of the commodities 

 exposed for sale, or the peculiarities of individual char- 

 acter. 



The Mexican and Ottomie Indian possesses very 

 distinct features from his North American brethren. He 

 has a shorter face and thicker lips, and the cheek bone 

 is much more protuberant. 



During the early hours, good humour evidently per- 

 vaded the press ; and the public spirit seemed to harmo- 

 nize with the freshness of the flowers — of which, as in 

 the days of Cortez, there is here always an inexhausti- 

 ble profusion ; with the bright colours of the fresh-culled 

 fruits and vegetables ; and the orderly arrangement of 

 the various piles of calico, hides, earthenware, baskets, 

 ropes, and matting. The toil of their journey, and that 

 of subsequent arrangement being over, the Indian and 

 his family mi^ht be seen seated at their morning meal of 

 tortillas and Chile, in peace ; and in satisfied expectation 

 of the approach of a customer. 



I never failed to remark, however, an exception to this 

 tranquillity, in the person and demeanour of an old, gro- 

 tesque alguazil, who appeared to have the duty of main- 

 taining order — or rather, of stirring up disorder, in that 

 part of the market which lay opposite to the university. 

 He usually lost his temper at sunrise ; and, as far as I 

 could discover, never found it till after sunset — swear- 

 ing most grievously the livelong day ; thumping the 

 cruppers of the mules, and the heads and shoulders of 

 the Indians ; overturning hampers, kicking over the 

 baskets, knocking down the piles of merchandise, and 

 putting everything in confusion, in dogged determination 

 to see all go according to rule and square. He seemed 



