MEXICO. 113 



well and substantially built, if not exactly after the pres- 

 sent European taste ; gayly decorated and painted in the 

 old sumptuous style in vogue two centuries ago ; but the 

 huge scaffolding on which they are pendant defies de- 

 scription. This, from one extremity to another, cannot 

 frequently be less than fourteen or sixteen feet — I 

 like to keep within bounds. I should esteem it impos- 

 sible to overturn one of them by any lawful means. 

 They are drawn by two or four steeds, or mules, heavily 

 caparisoned; and, when once in motion, may be seen 

 soberly trotting round the Alameda, or over the paseo, 

 for a brief space ; when they draw up in solemn state- 

 liness side by side, in one of the open spaces, to allow 

 the occupants a full opportunity to see and to be seen. 

 The gentlemen on horseback, meanwhile, course up and 

 down, with much the same objects in view ; halting and 

 chatting with their acquaintances, or rapidly exchanging, 

 in passing, that friendly little gesture with the fingers, 

 which passes current among familiars in this country. I 

 will not deny that you see some fine horses, and some 

 striking costumes ; and further, some handsome faces ; 

 and that there is a kind of excitement produced by the 

 bustle of these evening promenades, particularly when 

 they take place on the Paseo de las Vigas : but whether 

 it was that I love not crowds, and am given to seek more 

 quiet pleasures, and to prefer scenes of less glare and 

 dust ; or was apt to be too strongly reminded by them 

 of the vanity of the world ; or, lastly, that I was con- 

 scious that Pinto was one of the shabbiest steeds in the 

 city to look at, in spite of the daily care of Don Floresco, 

 and that my cutting a dash was out of the question — I 

 soon grew tired of attending the promenade, and used to 

 gird on my weapon and slink off in another direction. 

 Several times a week, about sunset, the band of the 

 artillery regiment quartered in the city, played for half 

 an hour in the vicinity of their barracks ; and many of 

 the loungers, both mounted and on foot, were accustomed 

 to repair thither : and, to do them justice, I have heard 

 far worse military bands in Europe. It was whispered 

 that the music was by far the best feature of the regi- 



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