120 MEXICO. 



the amphitheatre, and the equestrian statue of Charles 

 the Fourth, has left the range of the eye over the broad 

 tesselated pavement of the spacious area without ob- 

 struction. 



At the close of the day in question, a portion of the 

 area in front of the portales or arcades, and before the 

 palace, appeared covered by slight erections of bamboo 

 framework thatched by matting, and shut in by a pro- 

 fusion of green branches and palm leaves. The more 

 spacious were devoted to the sale of refreshments, and 

 liquors of various kinds — lemonade, pinade, a liquor 

 called chea, and pulque ; or for that of dulces, for which 

 the city is celebrated. They not unfrequently formed a 

 booth of twelve or fourteen feet in length, with seats and 

 tables for the use of the customers. The smaller served 

 as temporary shops for the retail of trifles of every de- 

 scription — confectionary and fruits, ornaments, or articles 

 of apparel. The whole w 7 ere most tastefully adorned 

 with bouquets of flowers, and at night illuminated with 

 lamps, tapers, and torches. The trade of the fair — for 

 fair it was — seemed to be chiefly in the hands of Indians, 

 or those in whom the Indian blood predominated. 



The crowd thickened, and the bustle in the plaza in- 

 creased every hour. The incessant sound of the innu- 

 merable bells, and the rolling of carriages, were really 

 fatiguing to the ear. But, when the cathedral clock tolled 

 the hour of ten, on Holy Thursday, a change came over 

 the scene. The regular shops were shut, not a bell was 

 to be heard. The carriages of every description dis- 

 appeared from the streets ; not a horse or mule was to 

 be descried ; but innumerable crowds of both sexes, and 

 of all classes, rich and poor, were seen intermingling on 

 the same level, and pouring, morning and evening, in one 

 unbroken stream through the thoroughfares, and under 

 the portales. They clustered by hundreds about the 

 doors of the churches ; and by thousands — yes, tens of 

 thousands — on the Plaza Mayor. 



AH the damas of the city, dressed in black, and 

 shrouded in their mantillas, repaired on foot from church 



