THE PLAINS. 189 



Not a drop of water was to be found on the hill, or in 

 the vicinity ; and when we mounted our horses in the 

 ditch, and began our retreat across the plain, we were 

 all panting with thirst and fatigue — none more than my- 

 self, whose feverish night had badly fitted for the fatigue 

 of a day like that I am describing. The nearest Indian 

 village lay at a considerable distance out of the direct 

 road, but we were all decided to repair thither. As to 

 our going forward that evening to Yautepec from Cuer- 

 navaca, that was at once acknowledged to be impracti- 

 cable. How shall I paint that arid stony plain, or that 

 blazing sun — the blood seemed to boil in my veins. 



The moment we reached the village, we threw our- 

 selves off our horses, and rushed with one accord into 

 the first palmetto-thatched hut, much to the terror of the 

 female occupants, who had hardly time to hide their bag 

 of maize, and get assurance to tell the customary lies. 

 " Water — water, give us some water !" No hai ! " Is 

 there none in the village?" No hai! "Any pulque?" 

 No hai ! " Any fruit V 1 No hai ! — no hai ! — no hai ! — 

 nada ! nada ! signores ! None of us asked for a Chile 

 pepper ! We were almost in despair. 



But shade was a luxury, even though it brought no cool- 

 ness ; and we lay down upon the floor. Good words 

 and cigaritas, however, soon had their effect : and water 

 was found — first in thimblefuls, then in sufficient quan- 

 tity to bring some degree of comfort both to our- 

 selves and our horses ; and at last we got some frijoles, 

 tortillas, lemons, and a small lump of sugar. The poor 

 beasts, who, bad as they were, had suffered with much 

 patience, equally with ourselves, were invigorated by a 

 few bundles of maize stalks. 



We staid here three hours, and then resumed our re- 

 turn. In the neighbourhood of the village there was 

 some slight cultivation, and the direction which we took 

 over the plains in returning, at the same time that we 

 avoided two of the most extensive barrancas, brought us 

 to more than one small stream, where the scattered trees 

 afforded some solace to the eye, and a moment's shelter 

 from the sun. On the banks of one of them, we saw 



