ZACUALPAM AMILPAS, 



199 



Our preparations for an early start were seconded 

 with such good will by our people, that soon after day- 

 break the whole party was ready to march. Neither 

 Don Juan nor Dona Dolores made their appearance ; 

 but using a valet as a cat's paw, they received their pay- 

 ment, and graciously wishing us " Bueno Viaggio !" 

 opened the gate for our welcome departure. 



Such is the souvenir which we have brought away 

 from our visit to the patriotic Cuautla Amilpas. 



Our next halting place was the town of Zacualpam 

 Amilpas, which we reached after seven hours' ride to 

 the eastward, over a very rough line of open country, 

 sweeping up towards the base of Popocatepetl, which 

 we were gradually approaching and rounding. 



Zacualpam Amilpas vies with Cuernacava and Yau- 

 tepec, in beauty of situation, and in the luxuriance of the 

 cultivation in the immediate vicinity. The plain in 

 which it lies has a general level of about five thousand 

 feet above the sea. Immense perpendicular masses of 

 trachite rise from its bosom, and form isolated hills of 

 very considerable elevation. The Great Volcano bore 

 now almost due north of us, at the distance of perhaps 

 ten leagues. 



Here we had previously the intention of spending a 

 few days with two of the gentlemen of the diplomatic 

 corps from Mexico, who had preceded us hither, with 

 the ultimate intention of attempting the ascent of Popo- 

 catepetl ; but under the present uncertainty when the 

 packet would sail, we had no alternative but to proceed 

 without delay — and therefore, in the course of the eve- 

 ning, after parting from Mr. E., who had proved himself a 

 useful and agreeable companion, and a good man and 

 true, in the hour of peril, we hired a guide to direct us 

 on our road to Cholula, and resumed our pilgrimage. 

 Four leagues of very rugged upland road, over hill and 

 barrancas, brought us after dusk to the Indian village of 

 San Mateo, situated among the mountains directly under 

 Popocatepetl. 



The whole ride, that immense cone, rising in unclouded 

 majesty directly over against us, had been the principal 



