202 



ATLISCO. 



shed, which served at once for chapel and courthouse, 

 and were extremely amused by a visit of ceremony 

 which the chief magistrate paid us in the course of the 

 evening, bearing a silver stick as badge of office, and 

 attended by a posse of half-naked subalterns. After 

 five minutes spent in nodding and smoking with his 

 guests like the best friends in the world, he departed 

 and left us to our repose ; with the bright moonlight 

 glistening upon the snow of the volcano, and the clari- 

 net and banjo of the Indians sounding in our ears. 

 But what sight or sounds can keep the weary traveller 

 from his rest ? 



The following morning we continued our rapid jour- 

 ney to the east and northeast, over an open country, 

 to Atlisco, a large town situated at the foot of an acute 

 conical hill of considerable elevation, which rises from 

 the level bosom of the surrounding country. Besides 

 the chapel on its summit, Atlisco boasts no fewer than 

 seven or eight churches. Here we halted only two 

 hours ; and then trotted onward, hoping to reach Cho- 

 lula, five leagues distant, at an early hour. The coun- 

 try over which we passed was in very bad repute for 

 the robberies upon it — but here, as elsewhere, we ex- 

 perienced no interruption, though the numerous crosses 

 by the roadside proved the truth of the report. 



Long before sunset, we came in sight of the plains of 

 Cholula, and of La Puebla de los Angeles. Their surface 

 is broken by many mounds, natural and artificial ; and 

 among these, the celebrated Teocalli of Cholula, with 

 the white church upon its platform, soon became dis- 

 tinguished, and gave a spur to our movements. But 

 our animals were jaded with the heat and stony roads ; 

 and the last sunbeams were shining on the facade of 

 the Church of Neustra Senora de los Remedios above 

 us, as we entered the town. 



Night speedily followed ; and as my paper is full, I 

 will begin another letter with the history of another 

 day. 



