DESCENT TO JALAPA- 



213 



say, shooting from under the other. In parts of the 

 country where rocks, or inequalities of the original 

 surface, had interposed impediments to the gentle flow 

 of the volcanic matter, the scene of confusion was truly 

 terrific. Here, the surface would be heaped with 

 huge blocks of solid rock, hundreds of tons in weight, 

 masses which had evidently once floated like corks 

 upon the irresistible flood ; and their black rifts and 

 yawning caverns would mark the struggles of the fluid, 

 as it pitched down some mountain steep to a lower 

 level. 



We halted for breakfast at a hamlet situated in the very 

 centre of this volcanic matter, and afterward resumed 

 the sharp descent. Below the lavas, the forests became 

 more luxuriant, teeming with curious trees and shrubs ; 

 and the views far more open. Judging from what we 

 saw, they must be of a most splendid description, and 

 that epithet may be worthily bestowed upon the situation 

 of the city of Jalapa, where we arrived at two o'clock in 

 the afternoon, having left Perote at four a.m. The 

 change from the sterility of the table land above to the 

 luxuriant and teeming vegetation of this lovely region, 

 was more striking than the contrast between the char- 

 acteristic features of the great level plains with their bar- 

 ren volcanic cones, to the varied and beautiful wooded 

 hills, vales, and mountains, which characterize this most 

 lovely region of New Spain. 



You and others have asked me, what comparison can 

 be drawn between the Alps of Europe and the Cordil- 

 lera? I was going to say none, but the traveller must 

 learn not to be rash. The lines of just comparison are 

 very faint. The highest summits are covered with snow; 

 the green swelling mountain and pastures of the middle 

 region have a general resemblance with the lower Alps 

 of Switzerland, in their outlines and colouring, though 

 hardly in their climate ; and there is something in the 

 general features of the upland vales of the Cordillera, 

 where they break down towards the coast, which puts 

 you in mind of the scenery of those magnificent valleys, 

 where the icy streams of the great southern chain of the 

 Alps precipitate themselves towards the sunny plains of 



