216 



JALAPA. 



comparison to whose sublime and majestic stature, the 

 elevated mountains which cluster round its feet appear 

 but as pigmies. To the right and left, extending along 

 the mountains' sides, at the height of between four and 

 five thousand feet above the sea, lies a delicious and sa- 

 lubrious region, covered with magnificent forests, and 

 diversified with some of the most beautiful towns in 

 New Spain ; a country, smiling with an eternal spring* 

 under the kindly influence of the heavy mists and dews, 

 which, rising thus midway up the steep cordillera from 

 the bosom of the gulf, pause here in midair, and promote 

 that rich verdure, which is equally grateful to the inha- 

 bitants of the arid and steril table land, or of the fervid 

 sands of the seaboard. 



To this " city of refuge" flies the unacclimated Euro- 

 pean from the port be!ow s as soon as that dreaded sick- 

 ness, the vomito prieto, makes its annual appearance 

 within the narrow walls, forgetting the thirst of gain, in 

 sudden solicitude to preserve dear life. To this point, 

 the moment be lands, the panting traveller presses up 

 the steep mountains with might and main ; and blesses 

 God when he feels the fresh air of the mountains, and 

 sees the white walls of the convent of San Francisco 

 crowning the steep: and here the inhabitant of the 

 table land, or the departing stranger, pauses and lingers, 

 ere he descend into the infected tierra caliente, and 

 ventures to inhale the hot and subtile breath of fever and 

 disease. 



Our view of Jalapa was but a glance, but it was one 

 which has left on my mind a delightful impression of 

 beauty ; and I often linger in fancy among its low, red- 

 tiled, broad-eaved habitations, or exuberant gardens, and 

 muse upon the marvellous beauty of its convent-crowned 

 hill, and the freshness of its gushing waters, lakes, and 

 shady woods. 



In architecture, the town affords a delightful example 

 of the old Spanish style, and many of the country seats 

 in the vicinity are delicious retreats. 



The population amounts to thirteen thousand. We 

 here met with the majority of the gentlemen who were 



